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Red Springs Rock Lower Tier (aka Jabba the Hutt Rock)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aliens Have Landed T,TR 
Carrie Fissure T 
Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo T 
Hans Soloing T 
Obie-One Keone TR 
Shallow Fried Cracken T 
Wookie Farts T 

Hans Soloing 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,034
Submitted By: 46and2 on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Photo showing how LOW angle this climb is.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This would only be used as a good warm up or possibly for a new trad climber looking for some really easy terrain. There really is no crux. This route is a good climb to set up a top rope for the fun crack "Aliens Have Landed".

Location 

Climb the LOW-angled ramp about 15-20 feet left of the obvious vertical crack on the face. Descent requires walk off and you should take the second gully left (south) from the top of the formation. Easy Descent!

Protection 

Take a small trad rack up to about 2 inches plus up to 3.5 for the anchors on top. NOTE: Brock/McMIllan guidebook lists this route as a top rope; you CAN definitely get some solid placements -- just use some common sense and don't place your cam in some cat-litter-quality rock!!


Photos of Hans Soloing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: EJ at the Base of Hans Soloing (5.4)
BETA PHOTO: EJ at the Base of Hans Soloing (5.4)
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian starting up Hans Soloing; YES you could easi...
Brian starting up Hans Soloing; YES you could easi...

Comments on Hans Soloing Add Comment
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By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Oct 12, 2012
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

Great climb to take beginner climbers up.
By Sean Stoops
From: Henderson, NV
Oct 13, 2014

For a beginner, I'd find somewhere else with higher quality rock. Placements here can definitely be found, but I'd say it's a bit challenging to protect given most horizontal cracks are crumbly.
By Wes B.
Jan 22, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

To my surprise I found a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb.
By David Kerkeslager
From: Brooklyn, NY
Apr 24, 2017
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

There are a ton of places where micro and large cams will fit, not a ton for mid-size cams. Given the mediocre rock quality we were looking to zip it up but as a result we were running out of gear near the top. Definitely an easy climb, but I'd only recommend it to set up a TR for other routes--there's plenty of nicer rock in Red Rock even for beginners.
By LB Edwards
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jun 14, 2017
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Lot of pro in the beginning, we were not sure if the route went further up on the shoulder or out on the face of the wall. I went with the right face. Stuck a lot of cams and felt out of the pieces I needed towards the top. It definitely felt sketch for a 5.4 - but should not be overlooked, it's a great test of nerve for the beginning trad climber and it gets in the shade mid-day. Ledge up top makes for a good top belay - anchors out on the face.

Would love to go back and toprope or maybe lead the other crack climbs here.

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