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Hans' Puss 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden, 1951
Page Views: 6,725
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 19, 2007  with updates from Ben Hoste

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picture of picture taking on Hans' Puss


Hans' Puss starts just to the left of Feast of Fools, just right and downhill from the Arrow wall.

Pitch one climbs the face/corner/flake system, until an easy traverse above Feast of Fools leads to the shared bolt anchor. 5.7.

Pitch two traverses right, following the path of least resistance until you can move up, wander a bit, and finally pull a couple of exposed 5.7 moves to get to the GT ledge.

Pitch three begins with a short but easy off-width, then follows an obvious corner to a slightly tricky hand traverse to the finish. Pretty nice for 5.5.

From the top, rappel from the Arrow or Three Doves bolts.


Located just to the left of the start of Feast of Fools.


Standard rack. Bolts at the end of the first pitch (shared with F of F). Tree at the end of the second.

Photos of Hans' Puss Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff following Becky's lead of pitch 1
Jeff following Becky's lead of pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: The third pitch of Hans' Puss, which is much more ...
The third pitch of Hans' Puss, which is much more ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris J. leading up P1 of Hans' Puss
Chris J. leading up P1 of Hans' Puss
Rock Climbing Photo: Alison nearing the end of pitch 1
Alison nearing the end of pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: JH at the belay ledge
JH at the belay ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: A happy traverse
A happy traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: An airy traverse
An airy traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: A December view of the valley from the GT Ledge on...
A December view of the valley from the GT Ledge on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Kontola finishing the pitch 1 traverse on H...
Andrew Kontola finishing the pitch 1 traverse on H...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Kontola at the Han's Puss change over a...
Andrew Kontola at the Han's Puss change over a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg following the second pitch on Hans Puss.
Greg following the second pitch on Hans Puss.
Rock Climbing Photo: On P1, coming back after missing the "obvious...
On P1, coming back after missing the "obvious...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric heading up P1.
BETA PHOTO: Eric heading up P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the P2 traverse on a beautiful fall day.  ...
Leading the P2 traverse on a beautiful fall day. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Annie coming up the first pitch of Hans Puss. Inti...
Annie coming up the first pitch of Hans Puss. Inti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on Hans' Puss Sept 3 2011. Taken f...
Unknown climber on Hans' Puss Sept 3 2011. Taken f...

Comments on Hans' Puss Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2016
By - - -
May 21, 2009

Do people normally rap from the GT after the second pitch? If so, from where? We did the (crappy) 3rd pitch and then rapped on Arrow. I didn't see any slings right where Han's Puss tops out on the GT, but it is possible to walk along the GT unroped at that point.
By SethG
Aug 17, 2009

Just did this route on Saturday, and I post this comment just to note that all three pitches are worthwhile. I thought the third pitch was interesting and different from the first two, not crappy at all - pretty nice for 5.5. The second pitch traverse is fun, followed by some nice 5.7 moves up to the GT ledge.

There is no rap station where the route reaches the GT ledge, but I would recommend going to the top and rapping at the Arrow bolts, it takes all of 30 seconds to get to the Arrow bolts. Seems like most people do just the first pitch and then rap from the chains, which I think is a pity.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 14, 2010

Loved the juggy fun fest on P1. What a great, airy traverse. It's all there, just suck it up and go. P2 was ok, not great. The best part of P2 is the vertical climbing; it's somewhat sustained and more interesting than the traverse. Did not do P3.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route! Both P1 and P2 have some committing moves to get past. I thought P3 was fun and mellow compared to the first two, but the finish is exciting.

On P1, I didn't think the "obvious" exit referred to in the Grey Dick was all that obvious. I almost started traversing too low when I saw some juggy chalked-up holds and at least one pin out to the right, then thought better of it and continued up the corner to the correct exit. Another guy who led the route after me wasn't so lucky and got himself on what was probably the first pitch of Feast of Fools.

If people really are mostly doing only the first pitch, that's pretty sad.
By Matt Glue
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2011

Robert: To rappel from the GT Ledge, the nearest rap station is about 200 feet to climber's left.

Awesome climb. Did anyone else find the second pitch worse than just PG?
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 9, 2011

All pitches were PG (~15 foot runouts at worse). Pitch 3 starts on the face at a small offwidth, maybe 25 feet tall (climber's left after topping out on the GT ledge after P2). We didn't catch it in time for our leader to start elsewhere, although we ended up at the big corner and standard finish anyway.

P3 probably could be skipped as falls too short of the rest of the grade of climbing, and really only has a handful of good moves at the top (yes, another airy traverse!).

Traverse on P2 was spicey, we took the 5.5 variation described in the Williams guide. The ledge to belay from stunk and the moves getting out from under the small roof were, well, thin and exposed to say the least. Good traverse climbing nonetheless.

P1 has some nice layback style moves, then a short section of jughauling.

Definitely recommend this route.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Not sure we went too high on the P2 traverse or not but damn were there a couple good runouts. Skipped P3 and did the last pitch of Silhouette to keep it at 5.7...great link up pitch.

Once you top out, you can rap from the Arrow bolts off to the left. However, if you have two ropes there is rap station just to climbers right from where Traverse of the Clods finishes. This is perhaps the best free-hanging rappel in the Gunks...amazing...and you get a great look at Twilight Zone. Two 60s will get you to the GT ledge.
By Galen Rahmlow
From: Woodbury, MN
Jun 18, 2012

The P1 traverse is wild. We tried to work the double ropes but it actually worked against us getting caught under ledges, best to alternate clipping because the rope drag wasn't really an issue.
By CatChen
From: Germantown, MD
Jul 16, 2012

Just led this route and thought that it wasn't obvious where to start traversing right on P1. There were jugs and chalk marks all over the place. Traverse too low and you might end up on Feast of Fools. Traverse too high, you'll need to down climb to the chain anchors. P2 had a fun traverse. Thin face moves on the only path that's clear of lichen. P3 was mostly a dirty dihedral with a good finish.
By rogerbenton
Oct 27, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

there are some good sized loose blocks at the P1 traverse, careful.

i thought P2 had sparse gear, although the traverse is protected at beginning and end. it's PG by the "crux is protected" rules but you definitely make a few moves feeling like you wish you had some more gear in.

there's a pin at the end of the P2 traverse, go ahead and clip it to be safe but there's a C3 about 3 feet above it and it's totally worth the small downclimb to unclip the pin and alleviate some rope drag.

another vote for doing all three pitches, i liked P3 and it's quick, and as mentioned leaves you super close to arrow's bolts.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 27, 2013

First pitch has fun corner and overhanging jug moves. Somehow I ended up 10' above the bolts after that pitch. The downclimb to them was fun in the dark. Rightward traverse is pretty exposed and exciting. It's all there though just stay sharp. Pitch 3 corner is worthwhile as well. Great climb.
By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
Apr 29, 2013

Just did all 3 pitches of this route last week. When onsighting this line, the crux is route finding! I agree there is a lot of chalk to carry you astray on P1, but if you are an experienced gunks leader you should find the traversing lines on both P1 and P2. DO NOT MISS Pitches 2 and 3 as they are all a part of the great adventure that is Hans Puss! Enjoy!
By AndrewJ66
Apr 10, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It is possible to climb too high before moving right, on P1. There is chalk that leads you up to a fine 5.6 traverse that unfortunately leaves you 12 feet about the bolts. Easy down climb but sucks for the second. Instead, go right before the roof.
By A.wilk Wilk
From: Olympia, WA
Aug 4, 2015

The second pitch of this needs to see some more traffic! At the belay it looks like things are dicey and thin but it is actually quite well protected. I was confused where to go at first but if you head directly to the right for 15 feet you will get a couple really good hand holds that take medium cams. Keep heading right a bit and eventually look up for the path of least lichen. After the traverse this thing gets seriously lichenous but keep chugging and you get rewarded with some fun steep moves.

We walked over and finished on the top pitch of Arrow, which made for 3 pitches of fantastic climbing.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 13, 2015

On pitch one you need to traverse right lower than expected. When you see a pin out right at first large ledge, move right. Going up will result in your being 15 feet above anchors with no good spot to belay.
By Systematic
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route all the way to the top with classic gunks climbing and cruxy route finding. P1 has nice 5.6 steep climbing in a corner. Start traversing right when it gets too steep. P2 is pure joy if you can be patient and thoughtful with finding your way. I actually finished P2 on Silhouette because the hand crack was too inviting to pass on. This is a really nice variation but apparently goes at 5.7+. P3 is ok. To reduce drag I would consider setting up a belay at the very base of the corner of this pitch instead of the top of P2.

>>>>>Gear Beta<<<<<<< Extra finger-sized and slightly larger cams are nice for P2 traverse.

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