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Kingdom of Ging
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arkansas Polio Weed 
Borg, The 
Bunion Blow 
Bunion Blow Full Left 
Bunion Blow Left 
Charlie Don't Surf S 
Cherry Blossom 
Crossfire 
Cube, The 
Gray Streak S 
Hank's Direct  
Hank's Left / B8 
Hank's Right 
Jerry's Kids S 
King of Ging S 
Must Be 72 Inches to Ride 
Spank Bank 
Tabula Rasa 
Unsorted Routes:

Hank's Direct  

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Hank Caylor/Rex
Page Views: 579
Submitted By: Phil Chai on Jun 7, 2014

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Description 

Summary: Start in the back left of the cave under Kingdom of Ging. follow obvious jug haul out towards the left to two crimps at the lip. Make the huge move from the crimps out to the triangular jutting jug. Traverse right on the ledge and then top out.

Details: Line begins from two jugs directly in the back, centerline of the Kingdom of Ging cave. It moves into a jug / pocket, directly behind you (going out of the cave), into another jug to your left side. There will be one more jug, directly center, that you will move to before you reach to a deep 2-3 finger pocket out to the left. With some footwork, move out to the right to a 3 finger half crimp and up to the jugs above, traversing slightly up and to the right. It finishes directly under Charlie Don't Surf.

Good: Holds are very good for the first half of the route, but with limited feet / tricky sequencing, the first half of the route can feel awkward.

Bad: The deep 2-3 finger pocket. Somewhat sharp, pulling off the pocket can shred some serious skin. The problem is completely overhung, so figuring out your beta and moving quickly will help.

Crux: Moving from the pocket to the half crimp. The key is using either a heel hook or toe hook & drop knee to crank up to the crimp. Body tension should be your focus.

Location 

Kingdom of Ging, directly centerline.

Protection 

Pads, spotters


Comments on Hank's Direct Add Comment
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By Phil Chai
From: Austin, TX
Jul 5, 2014

By jjjjjjjjjj
Mar 3, 2017

This problem is not called Hank's B8, it should be titled Hank's Direct, or Hank's Center. Hank's B8 is actually Hank's Left. This is more of a variation of Hank's Right.

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