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Devil's Thumb Southeast Chimney T 
Hangnail T 

Hangnail 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Derek Field, David Spies
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Dave Spies on Nov 7, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Hangnail 5.10- (NE face of Devil's Thumb)

Description 

Pitch 1 5.8 80'- Follow a left angling crack/ramp to a corner where the crack starts to head straight up. Set up a gear belay here. (Lots of gear options for anchor but I recommend saving finger size stuff .4-.75)

Pitch 2 5.10a 110'- Ahhh the good stuff. Head straight up to a short OW section to a roof. Go left out of the roof and follow a crack to the summit.

Rap: There is a two bolt anchor on top. Rap 95' (single 60m) down to the east saddle and hike back around the spire to packs.

Location 

North/East Face of Devil's Thumb
Park at Mystic Trailhead. Follow mystic 5-10 minutes and take a right on Hog Wash trail. Follow hog wash a couple minutes until you are looking up at Devils Thumb. Pick a line up to the thumb through washes and ridges. 20-30min approach.
Protection

Protection 

Double rack from .4-#4bd (#5 camelot optional) and nuts


Photos of Hangnail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle getting into the splitter fingercrack to s...
Giselle getting into the splitter fingercrack to s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof on P2 during the first ascent.
Pulling the roof on P2 during the first ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave leading P1 on the first ascent.
Dave leading P1 on the first ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap and View of SE Chimney Route
BETA PHOTO: Rap and View of SE Chimney Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Devil's thumb on the approach. Do you see a fa...
Devil's thumb on the approach. Do you see a fa...
Rock Climbing Photo: NE Face of Devil's Thumb
NE Face of Devil's Thumb
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek on the pitch 2 FA of Hangnail.
Derek on the pitch 2 FA of Hangnail.

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