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Hanging Teeth 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell, Vic Tishous 1968
Page Views: 1,161
Submitted By: caughtinside on May 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Base of Hanging Teeth. I took this for reference ...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hanging Teeth... the right most of the 5 open books. I did this route two years ago, and at the time I thought I was off route and missed the traverse on the Surprise. Hey, it's the 5 open books, you follow the book, right?

Climb up the big and mostly clean corner. In the back, there isn't a true crack, but a bottoming shallow crack with the usual grunge n' munge in the back, and it's generally too big for normal sized gear. The biggest thing I had was a #4 camalot which didn't come close to fitting anywhere on the first pitch. There isn't any weirdness back there either, where you could fiddle a good nut or sling a chockstone. Just march on up that layback, with good, positive grip on the outer edge of the crack. The first 100 feet of the climb is protected by a slung tree and a rusty 1/4" bolt.

Cruise on up to the rooflet which you lieback out right and then pull, still on layback. There is a crack right at the lip of the roof, you can reach around and place a small piece before you commit to the move, pull it, get a good look at the piece and confirm your suspicions that it was junk. A few more feet of climbing leads to the belay tree.

The following pitches are less than memorable after that first mega pitch. Whereas the first pitch is clean, aesthetic climbing with sparse gear, the following pitches conclude with some more corner liebacking before getting into some rotten and loose climbing. At least you get gear!

Top out into the typical 5 Open Books scree funnel and try not to send anything on to your second or the (nonexistent) parties below. Enjoy!

Location 

The rightmost of the 5 open books. The trail drawing in the supertopo led us astray and made me think this was The Surprise. Confirm it's the Hanging Teeth by walking right... no more open books. If you have the supertopo, it's also easy to walk left a short ways and locate the Caverns, easily distinguishable by the toothy block start below the low tree.

Protection 

A standard rack won't cut it unless you run it out. The supertopo suggests 2 5-8" pieces. However, the climbing is secure. Well, secure as a lieback ever is anyway.


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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Mar 11, 2011

Delinquent Checkup Variation (5.8) ***

This variation offers 15 feet of the wildest climbing you will find anywhere. It is the must-do finish for anyone who owns a cam big enough to protect it.

From the hanging tree belay at the top of pitch 2, you'll notice a striking offwidth crack that splits the steep left hand wall of the dihedral. The crack begins as a horizontal and then curves upwards as it reaches the corner. This variation traverses out the crack and finishes up the low angle arete past a couple 1/4" bolts. Take the biggest cam you own, and it had better be at least a #6 Camalot (which is almost tipped out, so bigger is better). This is absolutely mandatory for the traverse or you'd risk a devastating swing into the corner. Another slightly smaller cam (#4 or #5 Camalot) will protect the crack as it curves upwards, and some finger size gear will supplement the two manky bolts on the 5.5-5.6 slab.
By thecornyman
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 15, 2011

I thought that we were jumping on the caverns and didn't realize what we were doing until the chim section of P2. Besides the dirt and leaves on P1 and loose blocks all over P4 I would rate this much higher. The lie back to finish 1 and all of 2 and 3 are great. Oh and move quickly to not get swarmed by ants.
By Tomko
From: SANTA CLARA CA
5 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Started up this climb thinking we were on the Caverns. We bailed after 2 pitches because of extreme wetness and only realized we were off route when we got back to the car.

I can only speak for the first two pitches, but the description above doesn't match super well with my experience on the climb. The first pitch has decent pro in the back of the 5.4ish wide bit including a fixed cam 25-30 feet up. Towards the top you can move out and left onto a really awesome thin hands crack (visible in the photo I uploaded). From there you can make a cool, but spicy move up and then traverse right to the tree with a nest of slings and rap rings (as of 4/22/17).

The next pitch involves a cool low angle chimney with good pro in the back into some laybacking and an optional belay at some old slings on a chockstone in an alcove below a layback traverse that would taken some big gear (maybe a 6? maybe bigger?). This is where we bailed; the traverse looked really hard with the extreme wetness and we lacked gear big enough to protect it.

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