|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Jim Bridwell, Vic Tishous 1968|
|Submitted By:||caughtinside on May 20, 2010|
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|Comments on Hanging Teeth||Add Comment|
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By Bryan G
Mar 11, 2011
Delinquent Checkup Variation (5.8) ***
This variation offers 15 feet of the wildest climbing you will find anywhere. It is the must-do finish for anyone who owns a cam big enough to protect it.
From the hanging tree belay at the top of pitch 2, you'll notice a striking offwidth crack that splits the steep left hand wall of the dihedral. The crack begins as a horizontal and then curves upwards as it reaches the corner. This variation traverses out the crack and finishes up the low angle arete past a couple 1/4" bolts. Take the biggest cam you own, and it had better be at least a #6 Camalot (which is almost tipped out, so bigger is better). This is absolutely mandatory for the traverse or you'd risk a devastating swing into the corner. Another slightly smaller cam (#4 or #5 Camalot) will protect the crack as it curves upwards, and some finger size gear will supplement the two manky bolts on the 5.5-5.6 slab.
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 15, 2011
|I thought that we were jumping on the caverns and didn't realize what we were doing until the chim section of P2. Besides the dirt and leaves on P1 and loose blocks all over P4 I would rate this much higher. The lie back to finish 1 and all of 2 and 3 are great. Oh and move quickly to not get swarmed by ants.|
From: SANTA CLARA CA
5 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Started up this climb thinking we were on the Caverns. We bailed after 2 pitches because of extreme wetness and only realized we were off route when we got back to the car.
I can only speak for the first two pitches, but the description above doesn't match super well with my experience on the climb. The first pitch has decent pro in the back of the 5.4ish wide bit including a fixed cam 25-30 feet up. Towards the top you can move out and left onto a really awesome thin hands crack (visible in the photo I uploaded). From there you can make a cool, but spicy move up and then traverse right to the tree with a nest of slings and rap rings (as of 4/22/17).
The next pitch involves a cool low angle chimney with good pro in the back into some laybacking and an optional belay at some old slings on a chockstone in an alcove below a layback traverse that would taken some big gear (maybe a 6? maybe bigger?). This is where we bailed; the traverse looked really hard with the extreme wetness and we lacked gear big enough to protect it.