REI Community
Select Route:
Back Surgery S 
Black Streak S,TR 
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 
Direct Exposure T,S 
Dyno Dogs S 
Energy Crisis T 
Epidural T,S,TR 
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 
Free For All S 
Garden Party S 
Hanging Teeth T 
Impacted Stool Crack T 
Indecent Exposure T,S 
Jump For Joy T 
Knee Surgery S 
La Leche S 
Leapin' Lizards T,S 
Letterman T 
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 
Oh My! T,S,TR 
Out of Hangers S 
P-Crack T 
P-Wall Direct T 
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 
Pump Floyd T,S 
Route Canal T 
Rusty's Cave T 
Slime and Dine T,S 
Sofa King Great T,S 
Spring Route T 
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 
Squeeze Job T 
Stage Fright T,S 

Hanging Teeth 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: see guidebook
Page Views: 1,260
Submitted By: Tom Myers on Aug 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
brett hanging on to the jug above the roof. lookin...


This route is just left of center of the P-wall face. It is defined by a distinctively jagged undercling area where the rock bulges out, about one third of the way to the top. Above this formation there is a flake with a distinct right facing dihedral(corner). The route follows the corner and good pro is found there. There are optional starts but as good as any is straight down from where the undercling originates on its left side(this is the same start as for "Root Canal"). Aim for the left side of the undercling, passing one bolt and some possible tricam placements. This area is not difficult but has sketchy pro. At the undercling pro is great for protecting the crux. From the left edge do an undercling traverse right 5-6 ft(wild and showy). Look for spot where some jugs are almost within reach, you should still be to the left of the flake above. After pulling up and sl. left over the bulge you are ready to make a balancy move to the right, around the corner into the dihedral. From the top of the dihedral link up with the "cave to P" route or follow bolts straight up which are a part of "Root Canal". In either case you skirt a large left facing flake at the top. Bolt anchors can be found at the top.


There are bolts for start and finish of this climb. Central area requires 1.0 tricam (for shallow crack) and several cams 1-2.5 inches.

[ed. note: 1/04 - 3, ¼” bolts w/Leeper Hangers removed and replaced w/1, ½” bolt at bolt #1 and 2, 3/8” bolts at bolts #2 and #3.]

Photos of Hanging Teeth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Revised photo of P Wall.  Note the added bolts and...
BETA PHOTO: Revised photo of P Wall. Note the added bolts and...

Comments on Hanging Teeth Add Comment
Show which comments
By Slater
Mar 18, 2005

John, the Route Canal topo shows 7 bolts, three of which are below the roof flake. When I did this route last there was only 1 bolt below the roof flake. Is this a topo error or did the bolts completely get rearranged? Also, there should only be 6 bolts, unless one has been added.
By John Dalbey
Mar 20, 2005

There has been a "belay bolt" on top of the pedastel for a very long time.I remember it from the 70's. I like to belay from there, not from the ground.
By Slater
Feb 13, 2006

RE: Route Canal - When I put the first bolt in, it was the only bolt below the roof on the route. There is a pedestal start for Hanging Teeth (where the other two bolts are), but the bolts serve more as an anchor than as protection. The picture makes them look spread out and like the lower section is well protected. IT IS NOT. You get a bolt about 20' off the deck from the tree (where the FA started) and you can get some marginal gear in two more places below the roof, but that is it. My friend Dave blew the crux, his cam in the roof blew, and he just about decked, broke ribs. Not for the faint at heart.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

There are three bolts below the roof. You can clip the first from the top of the pedestal. The way I finish (don't really know the correct way but this makes sense), after the roof and corner, is to go straight up and clip 3 more bolts to arrive at a 2 bolt chain anchor that can reach the pedestal with a 60 and the ground with a 70.

I think this is one of the better routes in the area. Multiple tricky sequences and the roof traverse is sweet. Underclinging a handcrack. Almost like climbing on good rock! Pulling the roof takes a good read to get the round, obvious jug and is a pretty sweet sequence. After the roof is one (of a few) spots where it can get kinda scary though. Being BP it's a pretty adventurous route, but doable and worth it.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About