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Ugly Duckling T 
Unknown Arete T,TR 
Unnamed Crack T 
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 
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Hanging Flake 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,434
Submitted By: M. Morley on Jul 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (88)
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Climbers on Hanging Flake Route.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


A very short (~30') crack, good for kids and those wishing to practice jamming technique.

To descend, scramble up and left to the tree above Swan Slab Gully (3rd class). A single 60' rap to the ground from here.


On the right side of Swan Slab, about 20' left of the Aid Route (marked by a 4-bolt bolt ladder) and 30' right of Swan Slab Gully.


A few pieces. Gear anchor.

Photos of Hanging Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike, on Hanging Flake as alternate start to Swan ...
Mike, on Hanging Flake as alternate start to Swan ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging Flake route follows hand crack up to the &...
BETA PHOTO: Hanging Flake route follows hand crack up to the &...

Comments on Hanging Flake Add Comment
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By Patrick Kaufer
From: Laguna Hills, CA
Aug 16, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very fun practice. Took some new guys (a dad and a 9 year old kid) up it and they loved it! Highly recommend to take new people up. Set the anchor just above the flake on gear then 3rd/4th class up and left to the tree and rap off.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 10, 2011

I felt like everything was polished and insecure. If it was Tuolumne rock it would have felt bomber.
By Brian Snider
From: NorCal
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route has become so polished from all the traffic, my partner and I thought it felt more like 5.8. We finished on the upper pitches of Swan Slab Gully and felt the grade to be much truer.
By Rodger Raubach
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A very fun but all too short pitch; seemed very slippery and insecure due to lots of traffic that's polished the rock. I called it a 5.7, since it's significantly tougher than the Swan Slab Gully just "next door."
By Aaron Slaven
From: Fresno, CA
Nov 21, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very slick. Not sure about the 5.6 rating anymore.
By Steve Powell 1
Jan 4, 2014

Haven't done this route in ten years, but I remember is was slick in a couple of spots even then.
Feb 26, 2015

Awesome... Feels harder than the 5.6s in Swan Slab so I'll say a .7 .... pretty solid if you stay in the crack or use the couple face features. kinda have to be creative and if you're not sure, keep using the crack. I know I did an awkward but easy "lieback" move or two down low. Smeared maybe one time low and once up high.

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