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Gilligan's Island (a.k.a. The Alcove)
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Hanging by a Thread 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matthew Lawry
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: MattL on Sep 6, 2009

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Description 

Climb through jugs on the gently overhanging arete past the first 4 bolts. After clipping the 4th bolt, crank through some small crimps and pinch the arete to gain access to bigger holds (crux). Keep it together as you move up a lieback corner with bad feet. Cruise past the last couple of bolts to the anchors.

Location 

HBAT starts about 50 feet down in a large depression. Some easy third/fourth class terrain leads down into the depression from the southwest side.

Protection 

Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. Hopefully soon I'll add some quicklinks to the anchors. There is a wedged block at bolt 3 which is somewhat questionable. I spent a couple hours trying to get it loose with a prybar, but with no success. With freezing and thawing in the next couple of winters it might work itself loose.


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