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Damnation Crack T 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 
Das Musak S 
Devil's Fright T 
Hangdog T,TR 
Lucky Charms T 
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 
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South Face, Jello Tower T 
Winter Solstice T 


YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 669
Submitted By: Tatsu Ota on Feb 20, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>


Start is the same as Cat Burglar with the boulder move up onto the ramp. Take the crack leading into a thin seam under the roof on the face. Crux is pulling the roof. After a few pumpy moves the climbing gets easy and dirty from there up to Saber ledge


Left of Canary up the face on thin seams through the route. Same start as Cat Burglar


Single rack of .2 to 2 BD should be fine. Two .75s can come in handy. Same anchors as Saber and Canary

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By Sol Wertkin
From: Leavenworth, Washington
Feb 27, 2015

Cmon isn't this good ol' sandbagged Castle 11a..LOL
By hummerchine
Apr 16, 2016
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Leading this route has been a huge goal of mine for literally decades...didn't know if I'd ever be able to do it. On TR I'm less than 50:50. This year I decided it was my goal of the year...finally got the redpoint yesterday, as did John Plotz. SICK! That's just huge for me. Hardest trad lead I've ever done. Guidebook says 5.11a no stars...I say 5.11d/5.12a 4.5 stars.

Btw...has this beast ever had an onsight?
By blakeherrington
Apr 18, 2016

It's been onsighted.

On the Castle continuum, this one feels somewhere around the MF overhang in terms of difficulty. Easier than Das, Rainshadow, or No Such Thing. Pretty hard for .11a though! Nice work John & Tom.
By michal
From: Everett WA
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Blake recommended this climb to me couple years ago. I thought 11a is perfect warmup (not good warm-up in hindsight) I recall going up to little roof n pulling into thin laybacks n placing somewhat blind pro. Did pull off on sight but got way flash pumped, then went and did DDD which is a great cerebral exercise. Thanks for recommendation Blake, would have not gone on it otherwise. Nice work on rp guys, crushing!!
By hummerchine
May 8, 2016
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Haha! Blake, you are even a better climber than I already knew since you find Handog to be similar in difficulty as MFO! And I mean that as a huge compliment!

For mere mortals such as I...Hangdog is WAY harder. And I think MFO is hard! I've probably led it a hundred times and every single time I feel like I'm going to fall...but I don't.

Hangdog...for me...lives in an entirely different universe of difficulty. I'm 50% on TR...took me decades to lead it ONCE. (After working the crap out of it on TR)

I can see that if you had an insane strength to weight ratio it would be a different story.

But back to mere mortals like me...I've onsighted hundreds of 5.11a routes over the 37 years I've been climbing. Hangdog isn't even close to something I could ever onsight!

My hardest onsight was 29 Palms in Josh...second hardest probably PegLeg in The Needles.

Hardest redpoints? Clay. Insomnia (Suicide). Red M and Ms. Trella (Kalymnos). Das Muzak. Those are all similar in grade to maybe Hangdog is tied with my hardest leads...

I've climbed ROTC clean at least 200 times...mostly solo-TR, but plenty of redpoints and even a solo-lead. It's easy in comparison...but also a classic endurance problem compared to a really hard bouldering crux.

So that's my opinion. Awesome onsight Michal! And awesome that you climb so freaking hard Blake!

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