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Hangboard n00b, not a beginner climber?
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Jan 31, 2016
I found an old Metolious S(t)imulator in my mother in law's basement. I hung it at my house. I've got both bungee cords and pulleys set up to take weight off.

It looks great, like I could do some serious work on it. The neighbors will think I'm so rad.

Turns out in 20 years of climbing that I've only touched a hangboard a handful of times (maybe 5) and that was only on the big holds to do some pullups. I seriously have no idea what to do with this thing. It looks cool.

My current weakness is endurance. My second current weakness is power.

Ideas?
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Administrator
Jan 31, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the lip on Angle of the Dangle. Photo by S...
Is your third current weakness trolling? Micah Klesick
From Vancouver, WA
Joined Aug 18, 2013
4,237 points
Jan 31, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes
Yeah I would say the weakness you need to work on is trolling. There is a plethora of MP threads, books, articles, and web pages dedicated to this. Start there. grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
115 points
Jan 31, 2016
Micah and Grog, and others since I've noticed a trend of this lately.

Trolling is posting something inflammatory to get a heated response. An example would be threatening to chop Anarchitect because someone did it trad.

A subset and more creative version of trolling would be posting something patently false and seeing how many people you fool. The onion and the horrowitz report are great at this. I see it here time to time but not as often as people seem to think.

A repetitive question is not a troll. It may bother you, that's cool, you can STFU. Is 20kn posting a shoe thread trolling or is he possibly trying to narrow down some ideas he already has.

In case you're wondering, my third weakness is actually frequency. I sure wish I got out climbing more than I have been lately.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Administrator
Jan 31, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: OMG!
SO let's pretend this is not a troll:
Read this:
rockclimberstrainingmanual.com...
Follow instructions in book:
Get stronger:
Climb.
End of story: end data transmission
delete thread:
Muscrat
Joined Oct 27, 2011
3,553 points
Jan 31, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes
mountainproject.com/v/second-h...

trainingbeta.com/mark-and-mike...
grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
115 points
Jan 31, 2016
Do whatever that doesn't bore you to death:

Repeaters, max hang (10 sec ish), longer than max hang (20-30 sec). One arm hang (take off weight if needed), L-hang progression to front lever, pull-ups (yes, pull-ups) on holds you can crank 3-5 reps of, have the wife hang off your back...

Unfortunately there are only so much you can do on a hangboard, so watch a video (preferably not comedy) while you are at it.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
163 points
Jan 31, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Lady H
"Self-Coached Climber" doesn't have hangboard specifics, but does have great instructions for building your own program with the broad goals you have.

Maybe try googling the specific model you have, and there might be info on what all the bits on it can be used for, probably even some creative ones.

And, good folks like yourself will hopefully weigh in with useful information. The whole "troll!" thing is getting kinda lame. Yes, there are threads on here, but the search "function", well, doesn't. Besides, some of us truly enjoy our community. ;-)
Old lady H
From Boise, Idaho
Joined Aug 24, 2015
73 points
Jan 31, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: face for radio
There's an app I use called Boulder Trainer. You can download training plans specific to your board and goals or build your own. It works well for me.

Also, if you google hang board training plans, there is no shortage of info.
Dan Corcoran
From Kenmore, WA
Joined Aug 21, 2013
48 points
Jan 31, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Huge invisible muscles
Digit trainer is a good app with pre made workouts or you can build your own using the app. limpingcrab
From Visalia, CA
Joined Nov 5, 2010
1,042 points
Feb 1, 2016
Old lady H wrote:
Yes, there are threads on here, but the search "function", well, doesn't.


I discovered a new search tool, it's called Google, and I think it's really going to catch on.

lmgtfy.com/?q=hangboard+traini...

Top hits:
metoliusclimbing.com/training_...
climbing.com/skills/copy-of-te...
trainingbeta.com/mark-and-mike...
rockandice.com/lates-news/knuc...
Kyle Tarry
From Portland, OR
Joined Mar 5, 2015
96 points
Feb 1, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: At the BRC
reboot wrote:
Do whatever that doesn't bore you to death: Repeaters, max hang (10 sec ish), longer than max hang (20-30 sec). One arm hang (take off weight if needed), L-hang progression to front lever, pull-ups (yes, pull-ups) on holds you can crank 3-5 reps of, have the wife hang off your back... Unfortunately there are only so much you can do on a hangboard, so watch a video (preferably not comedy) while you are at it.


It'll be interesting to see how you adapt to the board, since you have a history of being pretty strong. I suspect you'll get your power and endurance back pretty quickly no matter what, once you escape school.

Hangboard isn't really best for endurance or power, but both will get better if you rebuild your strength on the board.

Reboot offers good advice but just don't listen to him! He's freakishly strong. No one arms!!!

Seriously, goal 1 should be avoiding injury. I believe that repeaters are a little safer for a board novice. 6 seconds on/4 off, repeat 6 times, rest 3 minutes between sets. Advance to 7/3 X 6 when possible.

Choose maybe half a dozen grips based on where you think you might be climbing. Emphasize open grip for tendon safety.

Two or three sets will usually give you better results. Personally I prefer more grips and fewer sets (in fact, just a single set), which I feel is more transferable to real rock, but that's anti-established wisdom.

If you decide to go for max hangs, maybe try 10 seconds on a hold/ intensity you could theoretically maintain for 13 seconds. (This is Eva Lopez's program.) Still reasonably safe. Rest 2-3 minutes between these 1 rep sets and do maybe 3 sets on each grip.
I varied this by doing 2RM hangs (8 seconds on/4 off/8 more seconds on) which I liked a lot.

I know you have a lot of experience with endurance training, not sure about strength training. If you know how your body best builds strength, (i.e. low rep/high intensity vs higher rep/lower intensity) then you should just mimic that pattern.

Goal 2 is to avoid terminal boredom. Funny, it doesn't bother me at all, I just turn on the radio and spend most of my rest periods trying to remember when I'm supposed to start the next rep!
If you can study for two years, you can hangboard.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
516 points
Feb 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Lady H
Kyle Tarry wrote:
I discovered a new search tool, it's called Google, and I think it's really going to catch on. lmgtfy.com/?q=hangboard+traini... Top hits: metoliusclimbing.com/training_... climbing.com/skills/copy-of-te... trainingbeta.com/mark-and-mike... rockandice.com/lates-news/knuc...

Yup. Google works pretty darn well, being the big search engine. Unfortunately, I was referring to MP, which is tiny by comparison. Thanks for posting up! :-)
Old lady H
From Boise, Idaho
Joined Aug 24, 2015
73 points
Feb 2, 2016
Old lady H wrote:
Yup. Google works pretty darn well, being the big search engine. Unfortunately, I was referring to MP, which is tiny by comparison. Thanks for posting up! :-)


Here, let me help:

lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Amountainp...
Kyle Tarry
From Portland, OR
Joined Mar 5, 2015
96 points
Feb 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Lady H
Kyle Tarry wrote:

Fair enough! Consider me happily skewered, although this is the power of Google, again. Don't be too hard on me-i have to deal with really clunky databases and unfriendly search engines for my job. And, since the mid 80's. But, I've also got to watch it all change and evolve, which, I have to admit, has been a blast, and will continue to be. We're fast approaching some interesting tipping points on a lot of fronts. Exciting!
Old lady H
From Boise, Idaho
Joined Aug 24, 2015
73 points


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