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Black Arches Wall
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Gun Show T 
Hang Time T 
Here I Go Again T 
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Hang Time 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: March 24, 2012 Jamie McNeill
New Route: Yes
Season: April - October
Page Views: 554
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Nov 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Approaching the final difficulties on the FA.


Begin by climbing up the corner to a rail leading right. Take this to a stance on the right side of a rock pillar. Go up the right-facing corner to its end, using stoppers and runners to protect. A difficult move (5.10a) through the overhang leads to a long stretch of technical face climbing, including a crux sequence (bolt-protected) past a blank section. Above the first crux, trend up and right to a stance below the bulging face. Work back left, around a corner (10a) to another stance below an overhang. Climb up the seam and technical face, passing one more bolt, to a good horizontal crack, then climb easy slab up and right to the anchors of Black Arch Arete.


Begin in the open book between the Tripe Buttress and the Black Arch Arete Buttress. This lies below the Patio. Look for the ugly, tree-choked corner 15' right of Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It.


Small to medium cams, a few full-length runners, small to medium stoppers, and at least ten QDs.
The pro is generally good, but some of the bolts are difficult to clip if you are short, a few trad placements require strategic use of long runners, and there is some runout 5.6 territory.
70m ropes barely make it to the ground off the top anchors (use same anchors as Black Arch Arete).

Photos of Hang Time Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shooting for the final dyno for the FA.
Shooting for the final dyno for the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamie McNeill on the FA
Jamie McNeill on the FA

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By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 14, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

At 5'6" I'll second that a number of the clips are reachy. That aside, this is a great route with numerous cruxes.

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