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Hang on to your ego 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,746
Submitted By: chummer on Jan 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Arguably one of the best 5.12 climbs at the Obed. Perfect rock. Sustained climbing. Great Pro. Crux at the very end. In an area of sport routes this climb is a fantastic testpiece for those looking for a little bit more excitement and challenge. Robinson scored a gem from the locals and fortunately inspired a few to put a few trad routes of their own.


The first truly impressive wall you encounter as you walk the cliff line. Set away from the trail a bit locate the obvious right slanting crack on the orange overhanging wall. Lower from bolts


If going for the onsight don't bother reading. If you want some gear beta here it is. The crack in the begining takes large to medium wires. 2-3 should do fine. Next up is some medium size TCU's. At the first real overhang place Purple camalot. Crank the hard move. Traverse right. Place Green camalot. Clip bolt. Crank crux. Get stood up and place blue metolius. I won't say where... Run it to the chains.

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By D B
From: Denver
Mar 24, 2014

Fantastic route that I will definitely revisit for the send. I can't figure out why the bolt is there considering there is a bomber #1 or #2 cam placement right below it!

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