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a1. The Uberfall - left
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69 T 
Apoplexy T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
Cordelette Arete T 
Coronary T,TR 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Handy Andy T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Katzenjammer T 
Keyhole T 
Lower Eaves T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Pony Express T 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Short and Simple T 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie K. Block, The T 
Trust Jesus T 
Zoomulator T 
Unsorted Routes:

Handy Andy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Andress, 1956 FFA: Gerry Bloch, 1956
Page Views: 2,047
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Handy Andy


A route with numerous variations, Handy Andy does not disappoint. The path of least resistance starts off tricky on steep terrain. Deliberately choose your moves through the first two pins. Traverse left to some small crimps and aim to gain the arete. From here climb straight up to the crack and enjoy a comfortable stance. Follow this right leaning crack over moderate ground, past a tree to the ledge above.

Var.2 (.10d/.11a) Begin 12 feet left of original start under the obvious roof. Boulder your way through the overhang, unprotected, to a dark colored area of rock, cruise right then up to join the crack. FA: D. Williams, 1964


Handy Andy is among four or five routes when first entering the Trapps. It sits 35 feet right and around the corner from Katzenjammer in a right-facing corner on a root system opposite a tree.


Two pins protect the original start, slings and larger pieces are ... handy. Cams from a .75 to a #5 bd will fit - hexes too, if you desire. Eye up the crack and choose your own adventure. A small and large tree on the ledge above are suitable anchors.

Walk off left.

Photos of Handy Andy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On lead on HA.  "Do I want to go hard left to...
On lead on HA. "Do I want to go hard left to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Handy Andy
Handy Andy

Comments on Handy Andy Add Comment
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By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 5, 2010

I seconded this climb. Very thin climbing through the first couple of pins. NOt sure the pins would hold a fall through this delicate and technical climb. Fun on TR.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 27, 2011

I climbed this in 2007... first 5.7 I ever climbed. I distinctly remember pulling on one of the pins to make it up on TR. Fun climb.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not for the new 5.7 leader. Plenty of hard options on this and I can see how you can easily get off route/confused. I think if you traverse the crack all the way out from the pin it would be 5.7 but this seems very contrived. Going straight up from the pin to the next horizontal seemed like the obvious line. Found it a good deal harder than 5.7. Lo and behold I was on a variation that is like 5.8+/5.9ish; the gear looked better this way. A large hex or large cam (#5 range) would be nice to drop in the large crack when you exit the lower section. I somehow made a brown tri-cam work there. Otherwise there isn't much gear for a few more moves.
By Kristian Starheim
From: Trondheim, Norway
Jun 21, 2014

Small X4-cams and small nuts came in very handy on the start slab. Going from the first to the second thin crack I felt that falling would be a ground-fall, though, so good margins are recommended.

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