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(5) Grand Auditorium
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Arupa S 
Face The Wall T 
Freedom Crack T 
Great Roof, The T 
Handsome Devil T 
Jasmine Beauty T 
Obvious Weakness T 
Other Peoples Pigeons T 
Puro Filipino T 
Strada del Verme T 
Topout T 
unknown unknowns T 
Upside Down S 
Verdon du Taiwan S 
Via del Drago T 

Handsome Devil 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nate Ball, Emma Huang, Jeff Lin (01/2015)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 248
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Jan 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Description 

    If climbed following the first pitch of Jasmine Beauty, this makes the best and longest moderate trad climb at Long Dong.

    From the JB ledge, take the hand crack straight up the face. Expect to spend more time jamming on this route than any other route in the country. The crack thins as you layback a juggy flake into a slight overhang. This is the crux - sick finger/hand locks. Shake out at a concave section before pulling through the final broken section. Beware of the big flake to your left; the chunky rock above aint too bad. Climb delicately over the grassy ledges and belay at a nice hand crack just below the topout. There is not a single bolt on this route... as it should be.

    The name in Mandarin: shuàiqì èmó

    Location 

    The south-facing aspect of Grand Auditorium, left of Via del Drago and right of Upside Down

    Protection 

    Gear to 2"


    Photos of Handsome Devil Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Althans in the business
    Jim Althans in the business
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the YJB ledge
    Looking up from the YJB ledge

    Comments on Handsome Devil Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Huang Li Ting
    Jan 12, 2015

    Def. one of the best trad route around 5.9-10a range at LD!
    By Nate Ball
    Administrator
    From: Portland, OR
    Apr 27, 2015

    On second go, definitely not 5.9+... except maybe by Valley standards.

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