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Middle Small Wall
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Handjob 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: E. Lecroix, T. Seibert, 1980
Season: Morning Sun
Page Views: 2,735
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Handjob (minus the start)

Description 

A great climb on great jams with solid rock and pro most of the way. A good warm up for some of the harder lines in the area.
Climb the obvious hand and fist crack, passing a roof at mid height (crux) and continue to a big ledge and belay.
To descend, rap from a set of bolted anchors which have replaced the fixed slings up top.

Location 

From the main approach trail, turn left and go under a large, wide roof, which houses the hard routes, Which Way is Up (10d) and Basecamp (11b). Continue past the roof past a radical looking chimney Hidey-Ho (5.10) and perhaps 70 feet further, passing Investigator (5.7) and Lactic Acid (5.9) to reach a flat wall split left-to-right by an obvious hand and fist crack and top-to-bottom by a small roof. The obvious crack is Handjob, a stout 5.9.

Protection 

A standard light rack with some hand and fist sized cams.


Comments on Handjob Add Comment
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By Stefano Prezioso
From: Denver, CO
Aug 24, 2012

I placed everything from a .4 Camalot to a 4 Camalot on this climb. A 5 could have been placed, but isn't needed. If you want to sew it up, here's what I brought.

1 each BD 0.3 - 0.75
2 each BD 1 and 4
3 each BD 2 and 3

Another 3 would have been good, and I didn't place the .3, otherwise everything else got used. Trim down with your own judgement.

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