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YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Adolescent Boy
Page Views: 4,383
Submitted By: slevin on Aug 31, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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BETA PHOTO: In all its glory.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Located left of Lower Progressive, this is a stiff little piece of offwidth climbing to contend with. Beware the Vedauwoo 5.7 wide crack!

Note that the photo on page 88 of the guidebook has the climb incorrectly labelled- the 30 arrow points to Lower Progressive, where as HJ is the climb to the left. The obvious flake at the start is a fun, if moderate, boulder problem.

It has good protection and sustained climbing. We have now entered the realm of climbs that are a LOT harder if technique is not employed. If you have followed the progression described in Easy Jam, by now you should feel confident on this one.

Arm bars, heel-toe, foot torque-cams, knee wedges...use it all, and pause every so often to remind yourself that, indeed, this IS fun.

Exit right to a short downclimb.


Big stuff.

Photos of Handjacker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gearing up for Handjacker.
Gearing up for Handjacker.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2017
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 4, 2001

This was my first attempted lead at Vedauwoo as a beginning leader. We thought we were doing the "recommened" 5.6 Stinkzig. Bring some big bro's in the 2-3 size. A #4 Camalot will not cut it, as we found out that day. Luckly for us, some locals helped us retrive our gear. The climbing is easy until you get to the under cling flake on the left face, only good technique will get you to the top from there.
By Mike Sofranko
Oct 9, 2001

#2 and #3 Bigbros and a #5 Camalot will protect this one. It's quite a grunt, but short enough that it is still fun.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 26, 2002

Or better yet, don your favorite pair of rollarskates and do it like they do at the "Fat Crack Festival." Best time with a pair of size 11 Rollerskates is 4 minutes flat.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2002
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I was once told by a local that the guidebook had errors at the right hand side of this cliff, and thus this 5.9 route had been misprinted as a 5.7. That may or may not be true, but more or less, they said that the book had all of the grades listed one-to-the-left of the respective route. Can anyone confirm this?
By Anonymous Coward
May 1, 2002

I think this one must be in the running for hardest 5.7 pitch in the universe
By Les Vanpelt
Jul 8, 2002

I was duped. I though I was on Stinkzig right side start. I left a good hunk of the skin on my right side on this Vedawound classic looking for that "good pro". Bring any and every big piece of gear you can, I didn't trust any of my two placements (one large hex and a fully expanded Metolius#10, both to small). The second pitch is great. look for good rap anchors to the right and down 50 to 60 feet, two ropes, also not mentioned in the guide.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 5, 2002

We too were duped by the picture in the book and thought we were on Stinkzig. This is definitely a sandbag. I was able to protect it with a #11 Hex down low and #4 Camalot right before the bulge. That was all of the big gear that I had. A real grunt. Don't think I'd give it 3 stars and Stinkzig 1 star. I liked the upper pitch of Stinkzig better than this.
By Brian Weinstein
Sep 15, 2003

Great beginner Vedauwoo offwidth. This one is fun.
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Sep 21, 2003
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Bring a #5 Camalot and just walk it with you. As to the grade, yes it is 5.7+. I could get up the thing, ergo 5.7+. Watching all the champions do this in big green Incredible Hulk gloves was quite the entertainment.

Also, I used 1 #4 Camalot, two #4.5, and a #5 I walked with me most of the way. You can get good placements for all of those, deep in the crack, but its easier to climb the thing if you're not that deep in.
By Jeffrey Bauer
Apr 27, 2007

Funny how time fades your memory. I did this climb years ago and it lived up to its name. Hands were certainly jacked, quite pumpy and strenuous...going back on the 5th any takers??
By kili
From: 29 palms, ca
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first time I did this, there was snow on the ground and we were wearing boots and leather gloves. I fell three times on the lead. I used two WC 5s and a WC6. I walked the 6 up the last five feet.

A really nice, beginning off-width.
By colin tuck
From: Moab
Aug 10, 2011

This climb can be totally adequately protected with just two cams, one BD#5 and one #6. You will walk the 6, which is much easier than carrying two of them.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
May 21, 2012

If you really wanted to sew it up, you could bring 2x #6 camalot and a #5 camalot plus a #3 or #4 big bro. I placed my first big bro on this route, but it fell out. The 6 would have kept me off the deck though.

Traverse right to bolted anchors on Lower Progressive or continue to the top.
By jbarnum
From: Denver, CO
May 23, 2013

Right side in the whole way. Four large cams will do it. 2-5s 2-6s. Super fun.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Jul 3, 2013

Hard and fun.
By Phil Wells
Mar 28, 2016

Lead this today, whole thing had ice running down both sides. Nearly a rollerskate ascent, just no breaks for traction. Real fun for the grade!
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Aug 13, 2017

I thought Slit was harder....

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