REI Community
The Risk Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Al & Mike's Frosty Little Adventure T 
Baby Beeper S 
Chillin' and Drillin' S 
Chimney Route T 
Chubsy T,TR 
Daddy Dwarf S 
Delegate, The S,TR 
Doctor Not Recommended TR 
Grü T 
Handcrack T 
Jim's Myrtle Spurge TR 
Little Green Apples S 
Mama Midget S 
Mark Hamill's Face aka Jack Palance's Push-ups S 
Mettle Detector T,TR 
My Big Red Catcher's Mitt S 
Not S,TR 
Perfect 10, The S,TR 
Purposefully Put In T 
Risk of Injection S 
Rope Trick S 
Scraping The Barrel T 
Serendipity T 
Sinister Minister TR 
Stupid Human Trick T 
Table Trash T 
This Bolt's For You S 
This Bone's For You S 
Tim's Stupid Hat TR 
Uncle Shorty T 
Unknown T 
Unknown F T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,118
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Apr 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Peter Dillon starting the handcrack.


Every climbing area needs a high-quality handcrack, but not every area is so blessed. This Golden Cliffs classic is hidden away at the far left end of the cliff, but it is worth the hike with a rack of gear. Located on the right wall of the large dihedral of "Chimney Route", it splits the wall all the way to the rim at plus or minus hand size. For convenience, and to minimize the erosive impacts of walking off the top of the cliff, a two bolt anchor with rings was installed in 2001. The anchor is accessible from the top, so there's no excuse not to toprope it even if you left the cams in the car.


Medium to large cams (#3.5 Camalot) to a two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos of Handcrack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Maroon - Unknown. Blue - The Perfect 10. Light Gre...
BETA PHOTO: Maroon - Unknown. Blue - The Perfect 10. Light Gre...
Rock Climbing Photo: The rope is on the climb.
BETA PHOTO: The rope is on the climb.

Comments on Handcrack Add Comment
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By shad O'Neel
Jan 13, 2003

Well, I guess for this crag this is a three star route, although I've climbed a couple better cracks here. Good way to avoid the crowds though. It's actually kinda wide at the top. A 3.5 woulda worked, I only had a #3, and it was weak...try the 5.8 called Bush Loves Detroit for a more fun climb....
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2003

A nice pitch, but not three stars. Bush Loves Detroit and Big Dihedral are better. It''s too easy to avoid jamming the crack by moving out to the left.

A good route, but not three stars.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 31, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Too short and broken up for multiple stars.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My favorite hand crack at Table.
By coppolillo
Oct 13, 2013

Decent little feature on which to teach somebody the basics...clean, sustained, if a bit steep for the first-time crack climber.
By Dirk Diggler
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 13, 2015

Felt a bit harder than Star Wars (5.8) in Eldo and significantly harder than other routes graded similarly in the Risk Area.
By PWells
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Apr 23, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Totally rad climb, more sustained jamming than Bush Loves Detroit and large feet make it a little more like 5.7+.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 16, 2017
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

If you have the right sized hands, it is barely 5.8, though lots of fun!

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