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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 480'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Woodruff, Hare and Gilbert, 1974
Page Views: 1,828
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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This is another great route on The Bookend. Right of Orange Julius and left of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, it starts on a ledge in a left-facing, wide crack.

P1 climbs the wide crack to a stance at 70 feet.

P2 climbs the somewhat flared crack (nothing new for Lumpy, eh?) through left-leaning moves. I employed various body scums in addition to jams. 120 feet.

P3. Merge right with the arete and face of Climb of the Ancient Mariner (somewhat runout 5.6 face climbing) and the Sorcerer line to the summit.

Descend to the NE.


Standard rack with an emphasis on the bigger cams, including a #4 Camalot.

Photos of Handbook Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 at the crux.
P2 at the crux.

Comments on Handbook Add Comment
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By Holly Barnard
Jun 24, 2002

I thought this climb was a pretty stiff 5.9. The crux pitch is long and pretty sustained. There is definitely more than one crux to this climb, so don't fool yourself into thinking your work is over after the first tricky part. On the bright side, this route is loaded with a variety of good jams. Good Luck.
By John McNamee
From: Littleton, CO
May 30, 2003

Good climb worthy of two stars. The first 30 odd feet is kinda unpleasant but after that the climb is well worth doing. The first belay is on a small pedestal to the left of the crack about half a rope length up. The 2nd pitch can be broken into two if desired with a good horizontal break about 100 feet up. Otherwise, I would agree with Holly that it is a long sustained pitch and solid for its grade. The crux is just after a fixed wire where the wall steepens and the crack becomes a little flared. I ended up liebacking around this section. The third pitch is a full rope length to good anchors. The route takes great gear, mid-size wires and mid-size cams.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 12, 2003

For chickens like me (who find Lumpy flares/cracks challenging to jam) on yer 1st run up this, doubles from yellow alien/TCU to #3 Camalot (#4 in the pack) seemed to allow one to sew this one up. P2 has 2 cruxes, one at the overlap (L-leaning on rattly fingers) and one about 20 ft from the belay where the flares are sl. trickier to jam with smeary feet. Thank goodness it wasn't vertical.
By John Keller
Jul 19, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I did this climber yesterday and loved it. The top pitch(es) to get off are dull but the first two are really great. We started up at the same alcove as Sorcerer/Mariner with a cool but unprotected step around move left into the first pitch. This avoided the grassy bits at the bottom. The pitch is pretty fun double flared Lumpy cracks with plenty of gear. The descriptions talk about going for 70ft, but if you start from the bottom, it is quite a bit further than that. Rossiter's topo has you belaying on the top of a column formed by the left hand of the two cracks. It's a partially hanging belay, but you need to get this high to keep the crux pitch to the reported 120 feet. Another group started at the bottom of the first pitch, belayed just after 70ft at a good stance (way way below the column belay), and ended up doing a 180+' version of the crux pitch. Yikes!!! It was hard enough without that. The crux pitch is terrific, if a bit awkward, but does have some rest stances (one of them a 2-hand rest). The jams are difficult and the smooth face on the two crux sections will blow your calves out but some careful stemming throughout with save your arms. I had a standard rack (Aliens, Camalots to 3.5, stoppers and a few tricams) with an extra #2. We didn't see any fixed pieces. I had no problem sewing this up but used all the cams except my two small Aliens. There's a nice ledge at the obvious end of the difficulties with good options for stoppers and tri-cams. It's an obvious place to belay, but as we were using double 50m ropes we had no chance of getting to the top from here. Doing Sorcerer and Handbook in the same day is a great combination.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 23, 2006

Did this for the 3rd or 4th time yesterday. My partners and I always thought the second crux was 5.10 something, and, since the guidebooks says to traverse right at some point, we thought we had missed the rightwards traverse. So this time I traversed right a little ways above the first crux (the overlap), to a crack system just left of the arete. It became obvious that that was not the way to do it. The climbing is 5.8 at most, but the gear is mediocre as is the rock.

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