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Hand Over Hand 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jack Dorsey and Chuck Woodman
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: Ron Birk on Jul 9, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: RH just discovered the crack (not seen in picture)...


For a route "topo" see the photo posted to the main Outlook-Area page.

[via Woodman's comments]
P1. Climb 100' up to a roof, pull it awkwardly (crux, 5.7) and continue up on nice rock to the first anchor. 5.7, 160'
P2. Head up and left and pop onto a beautiful white slab. Jam up an absolutely gorgeous crack which starts at an inch and widens to off width as it curves right under the overlap. Broken cracks in blocks lead past a steeper headwall, the climb a small white dike to lower angle rock and the anchor. 5.6, 170'
P3. Scramble up to top. 5.0 120'


Climber's left of the cliff. From the tree island rappel or scramble down to a two bolt anchor on the "ridge". (See sketch of summit area.) Two double rope rappels will get you to down to the woods.

[See COMMENT about possible single-70M-rope raps.]


A standard rack up to 3" will work.

Photos of Hand Over Hand Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the "Headwall" on Hand-over-Hand
BETA PHOTO: Near the "Headwall" on Hand-over-Hand
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up "the beautiful crack" on Hand...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up "the beautiful crack" on Hand...
Rock Climbing Photo: RW TR's the "White Slab" just to rig...
BETA PHOTO: RW TR's the "White Slab" just to rig...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Down what we believed was P1 of Hand Over ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking Down what we believed was P1 of Hand Over ...

Comments on Hand Over Hand Add Comment
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By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Aug 5, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

We left a pin and quick-link about 105 ft (33M) down from the top anchors. It is a few feet below the "overhang" on rappeller's left near the top of a 25ft-high right-facing corner. [See photo "Detail of Overhang" posted to "$9-Boys".) The pin is about 40-50 ft above the 2nd double bolt anchor, and is about 20 ft right of the "off-width" crack on the route. A single 70m makes it easily. If you miss the pin, or if someone pulls it, the crack accepts mid-size-cams or nuts, so you wont be stranded.

Make the short rap to the double bolt anchor below.

From the double bolt anchor a single 70M makes it to a small tree/bush ledge slightly to rappeller's right. We started climbing there, but another short rap (40-50 ft) off the 4-5 inch diameter pine would get you to the ground.

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