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Unsorted Routes:

Hand Jive 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown (by me, it's not in my guidebooks)
Page Views: 1,581
Submitted By: Mark Roberts on Apr 22, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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great route

Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>


The crux is getting your way out of the restful alcove. I guess it's also a little cruxy traversing to the anchors; you want there to be a jug for that move, but...

Anyway. Amazing route. Definitely out of bounds, you're not allowed to climb it. It's as close to the tracks as Clean Crack and Caboose are.


Just past Crescent Crack (climber's left), next to a sign that tells you you're not allowed to climb on it.


So, you'd think it would take a lot of hand-sized gear, right? That's what I thought. In reality, it takes as many Grey Camalots (.4, not #4) that you can throw at it. If I went back to it I'd take 4 greys, 2 purples, 2 greens and then some hand-sized stuff. Oh, and a #5. I placed a #5 in the alcove. You definitely don't need to, but I'd just bought it and wanted to place it. Definitely extend it if you do. Chains at the top.

Photos of Hand Jive Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me wishing I had brought more grey C4s
Me wishing I had brought more grey C4s

Comments on Hand Jive Add Comment
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

crux parts were rattly fingers for me, 3 each of .5- .75 camalots would be nice. I had 2 of each and leapfrogged them. other stuff works- #1,2 and 3, but I don't think I used anything smaller then the .5 except for a nut.
Also this has very polished quartz and is slippery at the layback past little roof, better on a cool day.
FA: Eric Weinstein, Carl Austrom, 1975, they rated it 10a then.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 1, 2014

No, I agree Geoff. I climbed it again recently and found my own beta lacking, .5s and .75s are the order of the day.
By Mark van Eijk
Apr 7, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Burly off-fingers splitter most of the way. You could probably protect the whole thing on nothing but #0.5 C4s. I had doubles and really wished I had at least four. #0.4s and #0.75s fit occasionally, but generally a #0.5 will fit better nearby. A #2 or 3 works well at the top pod. Solid 5.10.

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