|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Unknown (by me, it's not in my guidebooks)|
|Submitted By:||Mark Roberts on Apr 22, 2013|
|Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Hand Jive||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
crux parts were rattly fingers for me, 3 each of .5- .75 camalots would be nice. I had 2 of each and leapfrogged them. other stuff works- #1,2 and 3, but I don't think I used anything smaller then the .5 except for a nut.
Also this has very polished quartz and is slippery at the layback past little roof, better on a cool day.
FA: Eric Weinstein, Carl Austrom, 1975, they rated it 10a then.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 1, 2014
|No, I agree Geoff. I climbed it again recently and found my own beta lacking, .5s and .75s are the order of the day.|
By Mark van Eijk
Apr 7, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
|Burly off-fingers splitter most of the way. You could probably protect the whole thing on nothing but #0.5 C4s. I had doubles and really wished I had at least four. #0.4s and #0.75s fit occasionally, but generally a #0.5 will fit better nearby. A #2 or 3 works well at the top pod. Solid 5.10.|