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Climb crack on gear 1" to 4" through roof to cold shuts.
Middle of cliff starting on the ground behind fence is a hand crack through a 5' roof. Ending in new anchors above tree.
The crux roof move near the base of the crack.
Apr 15, 2014
If anyone knows the name and other beta of this route speak up.
By Spencer Perry
Aug 20, 2016
Lead this today. I thought the roof crux was pretty tough because other than a couple of good spots for jams the crack is wide hands to wide fists. This made the moves pulling the roof pretty sequence dependent for me. Once you pull the roof you get a great rest stance and at this point the crack takes #3 cams. The next ten or so feet are steep hands and stemming with some deep jams. I was able to place a #3 and #2 in this section. Then the crack gets thin, but the wall gets slabby so you can make some easy lie-back stem moves. I placed another #2 right before the crack meets the crap crack horn. After this the rock quality gets extremely poor and there is no reliable gear until you can clip some old rusty shuts to the left of the tree (I thought this was the mental crux for sure, as a fall would have been pretty dangerous). Once you hit these shuts, you should keep climbing up easy ground to the newer anchors for 42.
Doubles of #1-#4 will protect this. Maybe bring triples if you want to really zip it up. I would also recommend extending every piece with at least a quick draw to keep the rope out of the crack.
I thought this route was incredibly fun other than the top choss. Also, the lack of traffic shows, as the crack is extremely dirty and flaky which made some of the gear placement a little unnerving, but this would be relatively easy to top rope after climbing 42. Just build an anchor off the bolts and lower down climber's left of the tree. Set a directional #4 at the lip of the roof to mitigate a huge swing through the crux and get on this thing. This method also makes sure your belayer is way to the right of the climber which will be safer when the climber navigates through the dirty rock up top. Either way, the climber and belayer are going to want helmets for this thing.