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October Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Han Shot First S,TR 
Nuffin' But a Puffin T 
Saskatoon Slab Variation T 
Third Wave S 
Vanishing Act T 

Han Shot First 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Connor Myers, Oct. 21, 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on Oct 21, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Han Shot First in red. Vanishing Act is blue line...

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  • Description 

    Begin 10 feet left of Vanishing Act between two cracks and below a high first bolt. An optional medium cam protects the moves to the first bolt.

    The start is directly in middle of the wall, not in the corner on the left. Work up to a tricky mantle to a few thin moves to gain jugs under the roof. Traverse left under the roof until it is possible to pull up and over to a decent stance. One final crux guards the top and a lower-off anchor.

    Alternatively, once you reach the anchors continue straight up over the bulge with small cams to the end of Vanishing Act and enjoy the big sunny ledge above.

    Repeat attempts seem to have found beta which has softened the grade a bit.

    Location 

    10 feet left of Vanishing Act.

    Protection 

    Glue-in bolts with an optional cam down low.

    Lower off anchors.

    Very easy TR setup by hiking around left and traversing in to the anchors.


    Comments on Han Shot First Add Comment
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    By Derek Doucet
    Dec 7, 2015

    Surprisingly good little pitch. It doesn't look like much from below, but climbs quite well. A nice find!

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