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Hamster Forever 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jarom Feriante, Justin Jeffs
Page Views: 1,426
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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BETA PHOTO: 1 Hamster Forever 5.10a


A fun climb up sharp and sometimes broken quartzite. The holds are mostly positive edges (including jugs) with a few sidepulls and pinches thrown in for fun. The footwork is fun in a few spots.

Most of the route is a bit less than vertical but it steepens just before the chains. There is a good rest just before the steeper part.

The crux is in the last fifteen or twenty feet before the chains: a small roof and a bit of overhang.


The trail to Superbowl Bad Bananas deposits you essentially right at the base of Hamster Forever. There is a bush just to the left of the start. The first bolt of the route is low and can be reached from the ground.


10 bolts to chains (now 11 after someone retro-bolted it). The harder moves are all well-protected.

Photos of Hamster Forever Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the third bolt on Hamster Forever.
Above the third bolt on Hamster Forever.
Rock Climbing Photo: rock canyon 10a
rock canyon 10a

Comments on Hamster Forever Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Jan 15, 2009

Someone has added a new bolt between the third and (former) fourth bolt. Judging from the rock dust (and the plethora of fresh tick marks), it may have even been done today. It's not a bad place for a bolt, but it certainly wasn't there the last time I got on this.
By Rob Job
From: Provo, UT
May 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The jugs are there. You just gotta find them. In the occasional event you come across a move or two that make it a 10a and not a 9 just move past it quickly and you'll find a jug. Fun route.
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 12, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route. It feels really long, especially when in context of the shorter routes in the area. Hence, it was named Hamster Forever I suppose; conjures an appropriate mental image of a hamster forever running around it's wheel. Very pumpy, and the holds can be pretty hidden. I passed up some great holds using mediocre ones without even realizing it - there are many options to choose from.

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