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Hammond Organ 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson 5/95
Page Views: 4,896
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (162)
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"The Imaginary Hold" - Arnaud determined...


Start up the slab where there used to be a sketchy ladder made of sticks. Go up the vertical part which is like Junco but harder. Pull a fun mantle move and be happy, you are half way there, though the crux awaits. Move through some tricky delicate slab climbing which scares sport climbers (who are not used to slab climbing) every day. The climbing here is like Lonesome Dove but harder.

Apparently, you can move left to grab the edge of the chimney to your left, but I've always avoided the left edge and gone straight for the top (the direct I hear is 5.11).

However, you do the crux expect fun climbing, on perfect rock and a beautiful view. The fact that it is similar to Junco and Lonesome Dove means it is going to kick ass.


Just left of Junco and right of the chimney of Nut Hatch.


Originally 5 bolts to quick clips, but recently bolts have been added to the bottom slab section.

Photos of Hammond Organ Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee on Hammond's
Lee on Hammond's
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux on Hammond Organ.  The climber ...
Just past the crux on Hammond Organ. The climber ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the left is on Hammond Organ (.10d) and...
Climber on the left is on Hammond Organ (.10d) and...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jimmy Cliff, Right End.
BETA PHOTO: Jimmy Cliff, Right End.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2016
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

A lot of fun and a tough crux at the top (either way you do it, right or left). I also saw someone whip when they didn't make the mantle move - it was a long fall, because the belayer was pulled up the wall...might want to make sure a smaller belayer is tied in or something
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route is in the old guide book at .10d. Rightfully so when the bottom bolts where to the left of where they are now I bet it was .10d (They got moved to the better line about 3 feet right). I suck at grading, but i've been told it's now .10b, maybe .10c and I feel like that's right on. Either way, fin climb and don't underestimate it cause there's some thin but good moves.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 16, 2009

this route looks so non threatening from the ground but i know as soon as i get up into the buisness im gonna be like.... damn....
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 17, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The crux, for me, is all mental, and super well protected so check it out
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I feel it is still .10d because the crux is still the same, and I agree a very mental crux on great face climbing.
By S. Neoh
May 6, 2012

I did the route today by heading left to the arete at the fifth bolt. Pretty nice with just one thin move. Mid 5.10 is my guess for grade this way. As for the mantle, if you are half way decent with slopers, the insure mantle move can be totally avoided with some creative high step.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

First time on this route today. Very impressed. I liked it better than Lonesome Dove, though not more than Junco. The crux was a puzzler, but I got it worked out trying a few different sequences. Very nice. Recommended.
By Jason Scott Heacock
From: Milford, NH
Nov 28, 2012

I sent this route first go this past summer and was super impressed with the moves, but i went right up the bulge (after the mantle) and it seemed 5.11 for sure.... Skip the flake out left, and avoided the awkward seeming out right, then left sequence. Love this cliff jimmy!
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Any Quincy Quarries climbers out there who have climbed Hammond Organ? The route would fit in very nicely at the Quarries. It's steep, but not overhanging, and the crux is thin and smeary. The route reminds me of Ladder Line, but Hammond Organ is not as sustained at the grade. A good route, no question, and (refreshingly) different from a lot of Rumney routes.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Jun 14, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

A pretty good route, though I believe that lonesome dove is a much better option. I really can't put a grade on this, the best way I've heard slabby routes like this put is: if you can climb it, it feels like 5.6; if you can't climb it, it feels like 5.12.
By Graham O.
Aug 5, 2016

The crux for me was the big move to the sloping rail (I'm 4'7 so that didn't quite help). There is a little vegetation after the low angle scramble at the start, but other than that really fun route that's a great addition for this wall stacked with classic moderates.
By Kurt G.
From: Reading, PA
Oct 12, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

fun climb with some thoughtful and thin moves. I wouldn't put this at a 10 if you use the left side (chimney) at the crux, I went straight up and it felt like a mid 10 climb to me.

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