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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Gilbreath, Anita Gilbreath, John Sage
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: Alex Hardt on Nov 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Matt king top roping hammerhead. Taken by An Pham...

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Climb a broken crack to the first bolt using cams or stoppers for protection. Follow 5 bolts up the face to a chimney up to the tree. Use cams and stoppers to set up a top rope anchor to the left of the tree and rappel off the tree when done.

Stay over the bolts to keep it a 5.10a - the 5.10a part is only one or two moves near a slight bulge about midway through the climb. If you move left to the corner at the crux, the climb drops to a 5.8 or 5.9.


Hammerhead is located about 30 feet to the right of Three Amigos on the south face in the Glitter Box area of Lower Devils Canyon. From the start of Three Amigos, you can see the top of Hammerhead which ends at a tree growing out of a chimney above and to the right of the start of Three Amigos. To get to the start, go down to the bottom of the Glitter Box by rappelling down using the two rap chains east of Three Amigos or hike down and around to the bottom of the Glitter Box.


5 bolts plus cams and stoppers for protection to the first bolt. Medium cams and/or stoppers are needed to set up an anchor at the top of the route. Webbing or slings are needed to rappel off the tree.

Photos of Hammerhead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Evans belaying An Pham on top rope.  Taken by...
Matt Evans belaying An Pham on top rope. Taken by...
Rock Climbing Photo: Former anchor situation... yuck
Former anchor situation... yuck
Rock Climbing Photo: View up from the bottom of the Glitter Box.
BETA PHOTO: View up from the bottom of the Glitter Box.

Comments on Hammerhead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 7, 2011

Nice work Arjun! Thanks!
By matt evans
From: salt lake city, UT
Nov 4, 2012

Very fun route. First 15-20 feet before the 5 bolts is easy climbing.. protect if you want to/have gear. Route is a 5.9 if you use all the features available. Still very fun and the mystical tree that grows out the side of the rock at the top is fun to end up at. Solid anchor - two bolts that look less than 2 years old. I threw in a #4 between the last bolt and the anchor because it was run out and I had it.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yup, replaced them then. No idea why those comments are gone. That's what Geir was thanking me for.
By David Arthur Sampson
Apr 10, 2013

Fun route. I placed some gear to get to the first bolt.
By Stephane Fitch
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 23, 2014

Nice climb. Belay station is comfy, and it's well shaded. I agree with putting in a nut before you get to the first bolt. The climbing is modest, but the penalty for a mistake would be extreme.

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