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Midnight Rock
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Dyno Mart S 
Engine, The T,S 
Flake Out S 
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Hammer Down 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Horan & Lee 1998
Page Views: 839
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side. A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....

Description 

With a lot of variety and challenge in a short distance, HD is for my money one of the best single pitch climbs in Dream Canyon, up there w/ Saragasso Sea and Mantra. (That opinion is in spite of the fact that the sandbag last move completely stymied me.)

Start on the left side of Midnight Rock at a slabby right facing corner with the first bolt a few moves up. (Ron Olsen's route locator photo does a good job of pinpointing the climb.)

Highlights: a 10d layback past a roof, tenuous 5.11 slabbing followed by 5.11 bafflement up a seam, the final crux roof which is either quite height-dependent or very out of character w/ most DC ratings.

Location 

Like most climbs on Midnight Rock, this one gets a lot of sun and should be enjoyable during the cooler months.

Protection 

9 bolts plus anchors.


Photos of Hammer Down Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Madara putting the Hammer Down.
Doug Madara putting the Hammer Down.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jorge on Hammerdown.  Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Jorge on Hammerdown. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.

Comments on Hammer Down Add Comment
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By Bruce Pech
Sep 26, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

What David said. The final roof felt considerably harder than most Dream Canyon-Boulder Canyon .11cs. Stem and finger jam as high as possible, then make several improbable, right-facing layback moves to the tiny stance at the anchors. (This sequence worked for me after I was shut down on my first three tries. YMMV.)
By RickV85
From: Erie, CO
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Definitely not 11c. The roof crux is probably more like 12a, and the the two cruxes below make this thing way harder than 11c. I'll give it the old sandbag 11d rating. The slab crux would be a lot easier if there wasn't a bolt on top of the best foot chip! Apparently that bolt is for a project, but I am not sure why it was placed where it was. It could of been placed just a couple inches in any direction to not eliminate a foot chip.