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Hammer Wall & The Keyhole
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Corner, The T,TR 
Darkest Hour T,TR 
Hammer Case T 
Hammer Crack T,TR 
Hammer Crack Variation T 
Hammer Master T,TR 
Hard Times T 
Insect Parts T,TR 
Keyhole Chimney T 
Meat Hammer TR 
Nonconformist T 
Prosperity TR 
Stettner's Overhang T,TR 
Sunken Slab TR 
Top Shelf TR 

Hammer Case 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Rich Bechler
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,102
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 15, 2006

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Higher up with the gear placements visible

Description 

Hammer Case is a showcase line on a beautiful, secluded little wall and is also a readily doable 5.12- lead for the park if you are feeling fit. Dave Groth turned me onto this line in the mid 90's and I was instantly taken with it, and lead it in short order. This line was on his short list of gear friendly 5.12s in the park.

Find a nice starting hold, grab it, and climb up and left along a sweeping seam/crack. Great moves, just enough gear, and very little traffic.

Location 

Major Mass, left of Hammer Crack.

Protection 

I remember a couple of nuts somewhere in the middle. Particulary a #6 that was a weird placement.


Photos of Hammer Case Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome route, low on the (seeping after a rain) s...
Awesome route, low on the (seeping after a rain) s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake starting the crux
Jake starting the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's a shot of the gear.
BETA PHOTO: Here's a shot of the gear.
Rock Climbing Photo: Remo.
Remo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dmitriy looks for a foothold
Dmitriy looks for a foothold

Comments on Hammer Case Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 10, 2011

This thing is thin! Good moves though. Horrible rope stretch and penduluming made this impossible to work though without starting over from the very beginning every time, so no send for now.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route was surprisingly fun. Hard start, but once you establish in the upper crack it's over.
By Tradiban
Sep 24, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Big holds with tricky powerful moves. After the crux move right to finish on Meat Hammer for more length, 5.10 for that section.
By Tradiban
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I tamed this down to PG-13 by placing a #3 Master Cam left of the start and a #3 offset in the crux. Biffing the crux would put you on the ground but not too hard.
By Jake Lescher
Jun 24, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Highly recommend finishing up Meat Hammer. Makes for a far more enjoyable extended finish and protects well.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 24, 2017

Nice work guys! Cool to see ya on the sharp end. It's been twenty years already for me, does this route deserve a PG-13? This line would get climbed all the time if it were in a more popular area.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 30, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Agree JJ this is an excellent climb and more people should check it out. It wasn't on my radar until I saw the photo of Kris G. on it in Jay's new guidebook. Regarding PG13, the gear is spaced out and thin, but a fall would most likely not result in serious injury -- isn't this the definition of PG13? Our crux piece was a #4 BD microstopper rated to 6kn (a bit marginal?). PG13? G? R? YMMV, but I'd agree with Rhoads and say PG13.
By madisonchoss
Jun 30, 2017

6 KN? Marginal? How big are you these days????
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 30, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

One of these esoteric threads on here said it's not unusual to generate 5kn in a 10 foot fall. Less talk more climbing. It's as safe as most DL leads. Bring a pad if you're inclined.
By madisonchoss
Jun 30, 2017

I think you'd be hard pressed to generate that in a ten foot fall. Would need very little rope out to minimize stretch plus a very static belay. If that were the case I think we'd hear about a lot more wires snapping (mid sized nuts almost always have "6kn cable"). I agree more climbing

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