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BETA PHOTO: Tat cut off the rap anchor. Replaced all the tat w...
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This eye catching crack which looks better than it climbs, is so obscure that it was omitted from Rossiter's Eldo guide even though he had included in it Boulder Climbs South
HH is on the SE face of the North/West/climber's-left mouse ear, starting at about the height of the top of the standard rappels; the full approach is a doozy, requiring the hike to Mickey Mouse and at least three pitches of climbing. All but its first few feet are prominently visible when scrambling west to the raps from the top of Perversion
or Captain Beyond
. Even though the route starts w/in 50' of the raps, it is a slight pain to get to from there, requiring some scrambling over an intervening fin. The easiest way to get the start of HH is by climbing all of Beagle's Ear
, the 3rd pitch of which deposits one within a few easy feet of the start.
The climb itself is about 30' of continuous crack, starting with overhanging sub-tips and widening to hands, followed by 20' of lower angle slabbiness. The crux is in the first 15'. Oblivious to the implications of the route's name, we didn't bring tape which detracted considerably from whatever enjoyment it might provide. If I ever get back on this, my right pinkie will be taped.
Descent: after the crack ends, veer left to reach adequate, but not brilliant, sling anchors.
Small to medium rocks, cams from blue Alien to gold Camalot.
By Ryan Sather
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 11, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
I think the positioning of this pitch is interesting on its own. It's almost as if there's an aesthetic "Der Zerkle" esque route on top of the formation. Not a destination climb on its own, but if you're up there, why pass it up? The climb is sharp, but it didn't seem necessary to tape given the location. The current tat anchor is a somewhat worn and very sun bleached 1" in and 1/2" in tubular webbing slings with two wire gate carabiners.