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Halogen Angels 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: John McMullen and Greg Johnston
Page Views: 1,315
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Sep 5, 2006

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This route makes a fine start to Better Lock Next Time. It is a good way to mix some great slab climbing with some great crack climbing. Begin in a short dihedral to the left and around the corner from Better Lock Next Time. Climb the dihedral on to the face and follow the bolted line. It is a little run out up here, but the crux is fairly well-protected. The crux is about 2/3 of the way through the first pitch. (.10a/b) The second pitch is relatively easy, and you should finish on the fantastic Better Lock.


This route is located just to the left of center on the Sun. To the left of Better Lock Next Time.


Bolts, some may be a tad old. Screamers are never a bad idea to have along.

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Aug 13, 2008

Although some old rusties remain, about half the bolts on this route are modern. It's safe enough and kind of fun to alternate between big shinies and old rusties at every other clip. Excellent movement on sweet knobs and a great way to access the upper crux pitches on Better Lock.
By John McMullen
From: El Portal, CA
Apr 25, 2009

Looking at this line, and in fact the whole formation (I named it The Sun) for the first time and considering climbing it from the ground up with NO gear on it was awesome. I placed all the original bolts on lead and let me tell you ... it was fun, scary, and rewarding.

At the time, we thought we were using the best bolts for the job. The only other option would have been long star driven bolts and they would have taken forever to drill holes for with a hand drill. I never rap-bolted any routes at Wigwam (or any South Platte area where that was not acceptable), and I think Rolofson's route was the first and appropriately named rap-bolted route in the Wigwam area.

Greg Johnston and I were climbing "Halogen" the same time Charley and Kyle were doing "Better Lock Next Time" and since that route obviously required little or no drilling, and less time ... we did not beat them to the top.
By John McMullen
From: El Portal, CA
Apr 25, 2009

I also want to add that to buy "climbing bolts" in those days ... you couldn't walk into a climbing shop and grab 1 bolt out of a box ... you had to ask for it (bolts were behind the counter gear). If you couldn't tell the shop owner or employee where you were going to place it ... you couldn't BUY IT. it wasn't like it is today.

1/4 inch bolts, or Star bolts were all that were available as "tested" climbing bolts. 1/2 inch drive-ins were made by RAWL a little later. We didn't have anything better.
By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
May 13, 2010

Thanks, John, for sharing the FA info. I love reading old stories of how routes were first climbed in the Platte.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
May 29, 2010

Halogen Angels is a true masterpiece and a route that should set the standard for south platte ethics. I also enjoy hearing stories about how those routes were established on lead, ground up, on-sight.


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