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Hallux Valgus 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: J. Perwitzschky 2006
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jul 18, 2011

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Me getting the high smear on the crux section.


This route might be a little easier if you could stick to the damn rock! The crux has a polished smear! The first bolt is pretty low and isn't of much use, and there's another bolt in the middle of the crux which located perfectly where you're standing on said crap smear, making it pretty much foolish to clip it. Aside from those complaints, this route is really cool!
Climb the moderate rock to get to the second bolt and balance your way up to the third bolt. I used two gastons to manage to reach the jug. Chalk up if you need, then continue up to the 3rd bolt. Using the crack that runs under the bulge work your way left to a great hold on the left of the bulge and clip the fourth bolt. Dive into the crux, which you can probably do a couple of different ways. I reached up to a crimp with my right hand and got a really high left foot smear and stood up into a kind of lieback. Get your right foot on the good foothold on the bulge, get your left foot up on another polished smear, gaston the top of the crack with your left, and pick your right foot up onto the crimp. Forget about the 5th bolt which is now near your knee and balance out to the right to clip the 6th bolt. From here it lightens up to 5.8 climbing to even easier to the anchor.
Here's a good picture of a climber about to enter the crux. The high smear I mentioned above is just under the climber's left hand.


Immediately left of Zur zweiten Höhle, which can be used to set up a toprope on this route if you'd rather do that than lead it.


7 bolts (2 of which are useless) + anchor

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