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Hallucinorêve 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Paul Laperriere, June 1987
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Jerome St-Michel on Jul 20, 2014

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Description 

A Mega-Classic in the area. Some people say it has first been climbed without the bolts and using hiking boots. I am not entirely sure about this one though.

The route start at the south jonction between "L'aiguille" and the main cliff. It's dead centre on the blank face. It actually start on a 10 feet high steep slab with a high bolt. Boulder up the slab on good holds, clip the bolt and mantle up to a large ledge. Scramble up easy ground angling left to a ledge with an horizontal crack, clip the second bolt.

Take a little rest and get ready for the overhang. Climb up a crimpy section clipping two (2) more bolts until it is possible to get a rest out left on a less steep section. Climb on good holds to a thanks god horizontal crack. Place gear and traverse left under an arch which has a bolt above it. Climb up to the obvious side pull then clip the last bolt. Take a depth breath and fire the last section until you get to some very good holds at the base of a slab. The last section is unprotected but easy. You can use to flake on your right to get to the Anchor.

Protection 

to Camalot 0.75, leave the nuts

Five (5) bolts + Glue-in anchor


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Rock Climbing Photo: Hallucinoreve 665
BETA PHOTO: Hallucinoreve 665

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