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Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Analysis Paralysis T 
Booby Trap T 
Bullet T 
Cleft, The T 
Dodging the Bullet T 
East Ridge 
Englishman's Route 
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress 
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T 
Left of Cleft 
Ms. Inferno T 
North Face Direct 
Ricochet T 
Slit, The T 
Tyndall Gully 
Unsorted Routes:

Hallett Peak - mixed/ice Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,000'
Location: 40.30751, -105.674 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,726
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 24, 2006
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Hallett Peak. Photo by Ben Williams.


This is an organizational entry for the Tyndall Gorge to assist with clarity in the database.

Hallett Peak is probably better known as a moderate, close-in, backcountry, alpine crag. Once, it had the aura of a difficult Norwand. During the colder months (most of the year), certain freeze-thaw cycles can align to create a variety of interesting mixed lines here. Probably the most famous is Hallett Chimney. This was listed in G. Randall's 1983 Vertigo Games with a wonderful shot of Dick Jackson on the FA of the route. Since, it has become an almost Grail-like goal for the mixed-Colorado-aficienado. Subsequently, others have quietly sought devious, mixed adventures on this playground.

Within the database:


East Ridge, mod snow


A. The Cleft, 5.8 M4, 5p, 600'.
B. Bullet, WI3+ M6+, 1p, 130'.
C. Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress, M4-5, 5p, 1000'.
D. Hallett Chimney, M5+, 4-6p, 900'.
E. Englishman's Route, M5-6, 6p, 900'.
F. The Slit, M5-6, 5p, 900'.
G. Tyndall Gully, moderate snow, 800'.

Within this subarea, you will only find the ice/mixed/snow routes.

Getting There 

Once on the eastern side of RMNP, drive to the end of the Bear Lake Rd. Occasionally, this road will be closed due to snow clearing efforts. Hike 1.8 miles to Emerald Lake. Skirt the lake on the S/left side towards the obvious large rock buttress (900' tall). Note, there is a buried talus field here under all the snow. Hike up to the base. Expect at least a 75 minute approach. You'll gain probably 1500'.

For a quick link to the rock routes on Hallett 

Hallett Peak rock routes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.9 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hallett Peak - mixed/ice:
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5   M5+     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, Grade IV   
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress   M4-5     Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000'   
Bullet   WI3+ M6+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130'   
Englishman's Route   M5-6     Mixed, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900'   
Tyndall Gully        Alpine, 800'   
The Slit   M5-6     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900'   
East Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Alpine   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Featured Route For Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the end of P1 on Great Dihedral.

Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5  Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Nothing new here - people have been climbing Hallett's rock routes in winter for a long time. I found that Great Dihedral to Standard Route makes for an excellent mixed climb. The climbing is never desperate but is sustained and of high quality. Notes:Snow slopes at the base of the route can be avy prone.A potentially dangerous cornice forms above the exit on Standard Route, and some tunneling is required to gain the summit ridge.This route is not conditions dependent and makes for ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Hallett Peak - mixed/ice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyndall Gorge - Hallett Peak Cirque.  Photo By Dan...
Tyndall Gorge - Hallett Peak Cirque. Photo By Dan...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking into the mixed fun on Hallett.
Hiking into the mixed fun on Hallett.
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of Tyndall Gorge with Hallett Peak on the l...
A view of Tyndall Gorge with Hallett Peak on the l...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face of Hallet - Late March 2008
North Face of Hallet - Late March 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Hallett Peak.
BETA PHOTO: Hallett Peak.

Comments on Hallett Peak - mixed/ice Add Comment
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By j wharton
Nov 27, 2012
Here's a video with footage from Bullet (left version) and the last pitch of Englishman's on a nice day. Enjoy!

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