REI Community
Glacier Point Apron - Center
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coonyard Pinnacle T 
Galactic Hitchhiker T,S 
Goblet, The T,TR 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Left Side T 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side T 
Goodrich to the Oasis T 
Hall of Mirrors T 
McPherson Struts T 
Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack T 
Monday Morning Slab, Harry Daley Route T 
Monday Morning Slab, Left Side T 
Monday Morning Slab, Right Side T 
Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route T 
Variation on a Theme T,TR 

Hall of Mirrors 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 16 pitches, 1300', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: Chris Cantwell and Scott Burke
Season: Spring can be wet, Fall is best
Page Views: 2,979
Submitted By: Alan Doak on Oct 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Line of the "Hall of Mirrors" (5.12c R) ...

  • Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron MORE INFO >>>
  • Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Quite possibly the best slab climb in the world. 16 pitches of granite slab, comprised of various angles and texture, all of them amazing.

    The bottom pitches are glassy smooth, lower angle, and hugely runout. Your shoes will squeak on the polished granite, and you'll have to keep moving lest your feet creep off. If you do blow it, at least your belayer will have time to reel in armloads of slack as you slide down the climb.

    At pitch 4-6, you'll have the choice of the original line which goes straight up, or the Spring Time Dry variation to the left.

    Above pitch 7, The Hang, the climb becomes gradually ever steeper, harder, and better bolted (though it's still spicy).

    On pitch 14, head left to the Flake In The Sky bivy ledge. After that, 2 pitches up and right to the U-Shaped Bowl. From there, follow Coonyard to Rim, or rappel the route (all anchors are equipped with rap rings).

    Shoes take a lot of abuse on this climb, especially on the long sliding falls. People have reported burning through multiple pairs of shoes while working on (and falling off) a single move.


    Free Ascents
    FA - Chris Cantwell, Scott Burke, 9/80
    added the final pitches 13-16
    5 days on continuous ascent
    a couple of short sections of p13 were toproped, instead of led. In these sections, the bolts were placed as aid ladders, then the leader lowered to free the moves, but left the rope clipped in from the aid high point.
    2nd FA - Jonny Woodward, John Bercaw, 10/92
    1 day on continuous ascent
    Preparation (10/92): 2 days, mostly for bolt replacement (p13-16)
    Preparation (5/92): 4 days, including establishing the "Springtime Dry Variation", Jonny Woodward and Darrell Hensel.
    3rd FA - Alex Honnold, Oct 19th, 2011.
    Climbing #141, AAJ '82 [Edit: , Mountain #69]
    Early pitches freed
    p9-12, started p13 - 5.12c - Chris Cantwell, Scott Cole, 1979
    p3-8.5 - 5.12b - Dave Austin, Chris Cantwell, Bruce Morris, 1978
    p1-2 - 5.11a - Mark Wilford, 1975

    Location 

    Hall of Mirrors is the first route to the left of Goodrich Pinnacle.

    Protection 

    #1 and #2 friends, many quickdraws. All bolts and anchors have been recently upgraded to modern hardware.


    Photos of Hall of Mirrors Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: An 18 year old Chris Cantwell belaying Scott Cole ...
    An 18 year old Chris Cantwell belaying Scott Cole ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Another view looking down the "Glass Menageri...
    Another view looking down the "Glass Menageri...
    Rock Climbing Photo: View of the Hang bivy on the FA of the Hall of Mir...
    View of the Hang bivy on the FA of the Hall of Mir...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cory Dudley leading the "Steel Wall" (5....
    Cory Dudley leading the "Steel Wall" (5....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Following the "Glass Menagerie" (8th pit...
    Following the "Glass Menagerie" (8th pit...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the 3rd pitch on the first ascent of pitch...
    Leading the 3rd pitch on the first ascent of pitch...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cory Dudley leading the 4th pitch (5.10d) in 1981
    Cory Dudley leading the 4th pitch (5.10d) in 1981
    Rock Climbing Photo: David Austin leading the 1st pitch (5.11a) of what...
    David Austin leading the 1st pitch (5.11a) of what...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Clint Cummin's Topo of the Hall of Mirrors
    BETA PHOTO: Clint Cummin's Topo of the Hall of Mirrors
    Rock Climbing Photo: Toprope soloing, picture taken at the top of pitch...
    BETA PHOTO: Toprope soloing, picture taken at the top of pitch...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Toprope soloing pitch 13. My portaledge can be see...
    BETA PHOTO: Toprope soloing pitch 13. My portaledge can be see...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fixed lines on the bottom 3 pitches of Hall of Mir...
    BETA PHOTO: Fixed lines on the bottom 3 pitches of Hall of Mir...

    Comments on Hall of Mirrors Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Alan Doak
    From: boulder, co
    Oct 3, 2014

    Topo can be found here:
    stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hallmi...
    By john strand
    From: southern colo
    Dec 26, 2015

    "Foonting" was the technique when your EB's squeeked on the smears and you had to keep going.

    Named for Jeff Foont
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Sep 19, 2016

    John,

    actually, 'foonting' was named after the character from the Robert Crumb/Mr. Natural comics, Flakey Foont.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About