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Romper Room T 

Hall of Mirrors 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 700', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Ryan Prentiss and Chris Hagen 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,035
Submitted By: Chris Hagen on Nov 19, 2010

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Ryan Belaying from the the bush on top of pitch 2.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a relatively brittle route that, with a few more ascents, could become an amazing route in the First Creek area. It is a great combination of face climbing, overhanging jugs, and a crack that requires all of your creativity to complete. It begins on "Doobie Dance" on the Romper Room wall.
P1: After climbing up Doobie dance, continue up the left leaning crack through 2 roofs (brittle) to a small nook and belay from there, .75-2 for the anchor 5.9 150 ft.
P2:Continue up the crack to a bush. 5.8 140 ft
P3:The money pitch! Continue up the crack using fingers, hands, fists and anything you can to make your way up the crack. The crux is a thin crack to a fist jam 3/4 through where the feet disappear on a polished face, and the gear becomes thin. Protect with a #6 or #7 stopper or small cams. Make your way through the jam to a slight off width, protected with #4 or #5 Camalot. Continue through the disappearing crack to some thin face climbing. Watch out for the "cactus crux" at the end. Belay from a ledge. 5.10c 180 ft
P4: Continue up and to the left to a crack and a ledge at the top of the route. 5.9 60 ft

Note: It is also possible to continue up and right after the cactus crux pitch, however daylight motivated us to do a shorter last pitch.

Location 

This route is a left leaning crack that extends above "doobie dance" on the Romper Room wall.
Descent: Make your way left scrambling, over ledges, possible rappel to the Lotta Balls descent.

Protection 

Traditional. double rack to #3 camalot, single #4, optional #5.


Photos of Hall of Mirrors Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through the crux pitch
Moving through the crux pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: From Lotta balls wall.  Route goes up the left lea...
From Lotta balls wall. Route goes up the left lea...

Comments on Hall of Mirrors Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 19, 2010

Been looking at that line for years- always wondered if it'd go- nice job, guys! Looking forward to getting on it!
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 22, 2010

I think that this route was previously done by the former BLM park ranger, Jed Botsford. I wanna say they put up a route on that same crack also calling it .10+.

I would also say that this route would probably be better listed in the first creek slabs area as opposed to romper room. I think of romper room as a sort of separate wall. I believe this route is closer to the climb now listed as sunset slab.
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2010

Karsten-- this route is to the left of Jed's line, although both routes seem to have that "angling crack on left side of buttress" feature. Jed's line started by Rising Moons and went up left of Sunset Slab. If I recall properly, it was called either "The Temp Files" or "All Chalkless Revue".
By Cunning Linguist
Apr 24, 2012

This route IS on the Romper Room Wall, and looks great. It is the obvious extension to Doobie Dance, which is ten feet LEFT of Romper Room 5.7.

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