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Hall of Mirrors
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in Romper Room
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Algae on Parade T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Buzz Buzz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Doobie Dance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Frank's Right Foot Stinks TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Girls and Buoys T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Guise and Gals T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hall of Mirrors T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Kindergarten Cop T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magic Mirror T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Romper Room T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed Top Rope TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ryan Prentiss and Chris Hagen 2010 |
| Page Views: | 2,106 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hagen on Nov 19, 2010 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a relatively brittle route that, with a few more ascents, could become an amazing route in the First Creek area. It is a great combination of face climbing, overhanging jugs, and a crack that requires all of your creativity to complete. It begins on "Doobie Dance" on the Romper Room wall.
P1: After climbing up Doobie dance, continue up the left leaning crack through 2 roofs (brittle) to a small nook and belay from there, .75-2 for the anchor 5.9 150 ft.
P2:Continue up the crack to a bush. 5.8 140 ft
P3:The money pitch! Continue up the crack using fingers, hands, fists and anything you can to make your way up the crack. The crux is a thin crack to a fist jam 3/4 through where the feet disappear on a polished face, and the gear becomes thin. Protect with a #6 or #7 stopper or small cams. Make your way through the jam to a slight off width, protected with #4 or #5 Camalot. Continue through the disappearing crack to some thin face climbing. Watch out for the "cactus crux" at the end. Belay from a ledge. 5.10c 180 ft
P4: Continue up and to the left to a crack and a ledge at the top of the route. 5.9 60 ft
Note: It is also possible to continue up and right after the cactus crux pitch, however daylight motivated us to do a shorter last pitch.
P1: After climbing up Doobie dance, continue up the left leaning crack through 2 roofs (brittle) to a small nook and belay from there, .75-2 for the anchor 5.9 150 ft.
P2:Continue up the crack to a bush. 5.8 140 ft
P3:The money pitch! Continue up the crack using fingers, hands, fists and anything you can to make your way up the crack. The crux is a thin crack to a fist jam 3/4 through where the feet disappear on a polished face, and the gear becomes thin. Protect with a #6 or #7 stopper or small cams. Make your way through the jam to a slight off width, protected with #4 or #5 Camalot. Continue through the disappearing crack to some thin face climbing. Watch out for the "cactus crux" at the end. Belay from a ledge. 5.10c 180 ft
P4: Continue up and to the left to a crack and a ledge at the top of the route. 5.9 60 ft
Note: It is also possible to continue up and right after the cactus crux pitch, however daylight motivated us to do a shorter last pitch.
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