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Halfhearted 
Oardeal of the Boats, The 
Skidloader 
Welcome to Gumby Town 

Halfhearted 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: Jeff Jaramillo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 8
Submitted By: Unklhefe on Jun 4, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the whole route.

Description 

Starts matched on the chest-high horizontal pocket on the left of the bulge. Throw left and up for some smaller crimpy pockets before tossing big into the moss on the face of the slab. Head straight up, avoid the holds out right and leaving the moss (c'mon, you're barely 15ft up!) Good jugs and pinches to be had up into the roof, so calm down and forget you're standing in moss. Get some high feet and go for the bomber baseball-sized jug on top just left of the prow, (about 6 inches farther than you want it.) Take a deep breath and mantle the thing. Don't forget to look down and notice you are pretty stinkin' high for a boulder problem.

Named for the fact that the boulder itself looks like a human heart AND that the moss on the left of the slab face looks like a half of a heart symbol.

Location 

Climbs the straightest route directly up the slab face through the moss. Starts 4ft to the left of the R-rated tree from Gumbytown. Walkoff is the recently cleaned class 4 scramble to the right past the large cedar when you topout.

Protection 

2 pads and 2 spotters preferable.The landing zone has a pointed rock that does a good job as a backstop for the second. Don't commit to the mantle topout if you don't have well trained spotters– traverse right onto easier holds and up through the gunsight instead.


Photos of Halfhearted Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike getting all up in that moss.
Mike getting all up in that moss.

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