|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Tim Kemple Sr. and Steve Smith (i think that was his name?)|
|Submitted By:||lee hansche on Oct 5, 2010|
|Comments on Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 5, 2010
|I saw this while it was in the process of being bolted, looks pretty cool. it does cross the trad route Brendan's Bitches 5.6 but this route will probably get much more attention, and provides a bolt for the poorly protected Brendan's Bitches 5.6 so it could be an added bonus.|
Nov 13, 2011
This climb could still use some clean up work. It felt pretty dirty and sharp as I led it, and when my buddy TR'ed it after, pebbles were raining down. A baseball sized chunk left of the second to last bolt also broke off in his hand as he climbed past it.
I can't comment on the grade; I wasn't expecting 11.something territory and couldn't piece together the crux sequence, but I would like to try this again. It seemed like there were two ways to get up past the last two bolts. We both went up the right, but I thought the left seemed more like the intention. I would be interested to see the ratings for each.
One other note: the links on the chains at the top are not large enough to accept a biner. After trying that, I tried hanging draws from the quick-links on the hangers. This left the draws a bit too far apart, so I had to hang the draws on the rap rings on the ends of the chains. It would be a little nicer to have some larger links up there, but it's manageable as it is.
Jul 6, 2015
|Half Nelson only: Great climb, however the right bolt at the anchor is quite loose. It wiggles up and down in the hole. That was a showstopper for us.|
Oct 11, 2015
|Nice moves in the early section past the scramble, but after reaching the halfway anchor and getting a few moves into the interesting and harder second half, I decided to back down after finding the next bolt rather loose. I downclimbed and found, like coverbird above, that the right bolt at the anchor was even looser. Could use some attention.|
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 16, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
|All the bolts were fine. No worries there. But I found the crimping at the top of this route HARD. Like the top of Pulse.|