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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tim Kemple Sr. and Steve Smith (i think that was his name?)
Page Views: 1,207
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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This is a new route by Tim Kemple Sr. and a friend. He asked me to try it today to see what I thought of the grade etc. It's still a bit scuzzy but has some nice moves on it. The route is much easier down low and harder and steeper up high. For this reason they put a mid way anchor on it.

Half Nelson 5.7- down hill and right of Men In White Suites (5.9) look for a corner with bolts. Climb very moderate moves to a head wall. 5.7/5.8 ish climbing up the headwall gets to a mantel and the first anchor. Lower off or continue on...

Full Nelson 5.11b- This upper section is very crimpy and pretty steep. 5.10 ish climbing leads to a hard boulder problem to rach the chains. Finding the holds is the hard part as of now. Once it is cleaner it will be easier to navigate.

Still a bit dirty and brittle. This will be less of a problem the more love it sees so give it a try.


Down hill and right of Men in White Suites.


8 bolts to the top i think. Ring anchors on both, top and midway anchor.

Comments on Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 5, 2010

I saw this while it was in the process of being bolted, looks pretty cool. it does cross the trad route Brendan's Bitches 5.6 but this route will probably get much more attention, and provides a bolt for the poorly protected Brendan's Bitches 5.6 so it could be an added bonus.
By Padraig
Nov 13, 2011

This climb could still use some clean up work. It felt pretty dirty and sharp as I led it, and when my buddy TR'ed it after, pebbles were raining down. A baseball sized chunk left of the second to last bolt also broke off in his hand as he climbed past it.
I can't comment on the grade; I wasn't expecting 11.something territory and couldn't piece together the crux sequence, but I would like to try this again. It seemed like there were two ways to get up past the last two bolts. We both went up the right, but I thought the left seemed more like the intention. I would be interested to see the ratings for each.
One other note: the links on the chains at the top are not large enough to accept a biner. After trying that, I tried hanging draws from the quick-links on the hangers. This left the draws a bit too far apart, so I had to hang the draws on the rap rings on the ends of the chains. It would be a little nicer to have some larger links up there, but it's manageable as it is.
By coverbird
Jul 6, 2015

Half Nelson only: Great climb, however the right bolt at the anchor is quite loose. It wiggles up and down in the hole. That was a showstopper for us.
By TimInCT
Oct 11, 2015

Nice moves in the early section past the scramble, but after reaching the halfway anchor and getting a few moves into the interesting and harder second half, I decided to back down after finding the next bolt rather loose. I downclimbed and found, like coverbird above, that the right bolt at the anchor was even looser. Could use some attention.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 16, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

All the bolts were fine. No worries there. But I found the crimping at the top of this route HARD. Like the top of Pulse.
By Cavan O
From: Somerville, MA
May 22, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

First time at this part of Main Wall, myself and another lead this before heading to venus wall without looking at any info about the climb. The first section is over before you really want it to be so we decided to keep going up, didnt notice any loose bolts.

The hardest part about the climb is the last bolt and anchors. its hard finding the best holds to grab which i didnt do so i made it harder then it needed to be. If you get to the anchors and are not holding on to anything good then keep going up and left of chains, there are good holds to clip anchors from. In the end i guess it could be 5.11b considering the size of a few of the holds

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