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Half Man, Half Wit 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: October 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Nov
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Nov 16, 2010

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Pumpy moves to get off the ground, followed by delicate smear/laybacking on extremely questionable gear. As it has a fixed anchor at the top, this makes a very good, 3-star TR. As a lead, well, it's effectively a free solo.


30' right of Peney for your Freedom, this route begins as a horizontal rail, then curves up right into a thin, pillar flake that trends slightly left as it goes up a steep face.
Descent: either lower via fixed anchor or walk off climber's left.


One .75 or #1 Camalot for the starting moves, then microcams, brass nuts, and small tricams for the rest...and don't fall.
Fixed anchor on top.

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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Definitely best as a top rope, some of the flakes used for gear are going to break off with use (flex) over time, and will probably blow if gear is placed behind them and fallen on.

This is definitely a fun climb with good moves. I agree that this is on the softer side of 9.

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