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Half Leno S,TR 

Half Leno 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Perin Blanchard, John Ross
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 675
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Solitary Misdemeanors 1 Half Leno 5.8 2 Full Nels...


Start up a rough and textured limestone slab with plenty of edges (and a bonus two-finger pocket) and plenty of friction though three bolts.

Step up under a bulgy roof, clip the fourth bolt, surmount the obstacle, and then continue up through two more bolts to the anchors.

The last bit has some rough, brown, chert intrusions that are kind of cool and which form the holds.


The left of the two bolted routes.


6 bolts, hangers-and-chains anchors.

This route can be toproped by scrambing up the gully located to the east, reaching a ledge above the wall.

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By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Sep 9, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The rock here is very grippy and the climb has some fun movement. Its technical then lets up to some jugs then a nice roof, then the top blanks out a bit so you can use your brain. overall a thoughtful climb. thanks perin for developing this area.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 12, 2008

Without a doubt, the better of the 2 routes here. You actually get some good grips (yes, including the 2-finger pocket). The steep roofish feature is pretty neat and the top takes a bit of figuring out. Not bad.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 13, 2008

Enjoyed this one significantly more than the 5.9. Mostly solid crimpers (and the skin-friendly 2 finger pocket) the whole way up. Solid rock with good friction to some pretty rockin camouflaged chains. What's not to like?
By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Oct 24, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I am terrible at roofs so this is why I thought this route was a little harder than the right route. It is a long way up the canyon but these routes are worth doing. I enjoyed them a lot.

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