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All Dogs Go to Heaven S 
Half Blind and Fully Baked T 
Subtle like Bob Ross T 
Whine and Lickher S 

Half Blind and Fully Baked 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Matt & Kathy Barker
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: Ron Birk on Aug 1, 2016  with updates from beach and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the beautiful crack from about 20-30...

Description 

START- At the same flat ground as Whine & Lickher, 25 ft down and right of "Bob Ross"

A great fun route not to be missed with great gear. It starts with featured rock but soon a crack shows up that you follow till the top. It's similar to Bombardment at Cathedral but a couple of grades easier. Shares the anchor with the other two routes in the area. 70m rope is needed for the rap.

Location 

The middle route on this section.

Protection 

Natural gear is plenty. A tricam useful in a pocket for the last blank section after the crack thins out. Single Rack to BD #1 and extra finger/mid sizes can help.


Photos of Half Blind and Fully Baked Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the crack.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Half Blind and Fully Baked
BETA PHOTO: Half Blind and Fully Baked

Comments on Half Blind and Fully Baked Add Comment
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By beach
From: Portland, ME
Aug 1, 2016

best all gear pitch at the cliff I believe
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Aug 3, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Except for the last 5.5-5.6 slab moves to the anchor that (maybe) could use a bolt*, this is the best first-trad lead of any climb near its grade. (That's a period at the end of the sentence...as in, like, potentially the best I've seen in 50+ years of climbing.)

. *OK, OK a tricam works, but not many beginning leaders have them.

Thanks for the cleaning job on the crack. It must have been work.

I'd give it a "5.6+" if the grade existed on MtnPrjct. I thought it easier than the 5.7's on the cliff like "Surveyor's" and "Berliner".

Oh yes, save at least one #1 (Red) Camalot for the "Pod" at the top of the crack. Other than that, if you had triples of 0.4, 0.5 and 0.75 you could probably place them all if you wanted to!
By Steven Scherr
From: Boston
Aug 3, 2016

I couldn't agree more. This pitch was the highlight of the whole cliff in my opinion! Wonderful lead and I agree slightly easy for the grade.
By John Halupowski
From: Intervale, N.H.
Sep 9, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Excellent climb for it's grade. Nice small-med wire placements in bottom half, than small-med cam options galore in second half.
By Ben Townsend
Sep 29, 2016

Superb pitch. The pocket between the top of the crack and the anchor is a custom fit for a #1 Tricam.
By Tom Sawyer
From: North Conway, NH
Aug 17, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very well protected climb with nuts and tricams. I did use one BD camelot higher up at the start of the crack. I felt that the crack was sustained enough to warrant the 5.7 rating. A wonderful climb. Well worth doing again. However I wish the anchor was a bit higher allowing for a more comfortable stance, but this does not detract from the quality of the climb.

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