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Vector Madness Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boy Cooper T 
Doubling the Cube S 
Halcyon T 
Hop Rising Point T 
Lack of Principle S 
Pi in the Sky T 
Straddle the Pony T 
Tangent T 
TVC S 
Vector Madness S 
Vertical Component T 
Zach's Theorem S 

Halcyon 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: J. Steiger, J. Saviers-Steiger, Aug. 2013
Page Views: 116
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 7, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Kent on Halcyon.

Description 

The pitch off the ground is short, but a 5.8-5.9 climber will find it packed: balancy face climbing on a blunt arête, a stimulating traverse over a drop-off, and a roof band with surprisingly good holds. (1) Climb the arête past three bolts to good cams. Continue up until possible to traverse right under and eventually over the roofband. Belay from the anchors for Vector Madness/Vertical Component (but keep in mind the swing potential for your second). 60 feet. (2) Step right and climb the headwall above to another set of anchors. 50 feet.

Location 

Starts left and maybe 25 feet uphill of Vector Madness/Vertical Component. Rappel from chain anchors. 70 meter rope can get you down in one rap.

Protection 

Draws and singles of nuts and cams to two inches.


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By tenesmus
Aug 1, 2015

It would be tempting to go straight up and over the lip along the crack system that links the arete to the roof. However, there is hollow rock that needs cleaning. Be sure to go right at the base of the roof for really fun jug hauling.

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