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The Papoose
Routes Sorted
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Centerfold T 
Hairpin T 
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Laid Back T 
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Mercury Vapour T 
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Obsession T 
Pamplemousse T,S 
Papoose One T 
Survival Enhancement T 
Transit of Venus T 

Hairpin 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tim Auger, Dan Tate, 1965. FFA: Don Serl, Vern Coulomb, Greg Yavorski, 1978
Page Views: 3,800
Submitted By: The Gravel Diving Albatross on Nov 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Tristan leading Hairpin on the Papoose. Photo by G...

Description 

First pitch is a very interesting traversing 5.8 crack, and a wave like rock. Second pitch is the crux. It is a beautiful thin hands/finder crack and goes at 10a. From there you get a couple 5.9 pitches, and then it eases off.

Location 

The route starts near the center of the Papoose. Look for the obvious traversing first pitch. It is very striking and hard to miss.

Protection 

2.5 inch and smaller. You will need some runners for the first pitch.


Photos of Hairpin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: with my son Tristan, at the belay on Hairpin
with my son Tristan, at the belay on Hairpin
Rock Climbing Photo: Jessica on the 5.9 traverse that forms Pitch 3 of ...
BETA PHOTO: Jessica on the 5.9 traverse that forms Pitch 3 of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The 10a slab on Pitch 5 of Hairpin / Pitch 6 of Pa...
BETA PHOTO: The 10a slab on Pitch 5 of Hairpin / Pitch 6 of Pa...
Rock Climbing Photo: The 5.6 traversing crack on Pitch 4 of Hairpin / P...
BETA PHOTO: The 5.6 traversing crack on Pitch 4 of Hairpin / P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lead off Pitch 2 of Hairpin.
BETA PHOTO: Lead off Pitch 2 of Hairpin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack on Pitch 2 of Hairpin.
Crack on Pitch 2 of Hairpin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of Hairpin.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Hairpin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the base of Pitch 1 of Hairpin. A ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of Pitch 1 of Hairpin. A ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Please forgive the exaggerating tilt
Please forgive the exaggerating tilt
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4
Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the 1st pitch. It's not wet...that's gl...
Looking up the 1st pitch. It's not wet...that's gl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan leading pitch 2 on Hairpin, Papoose. Photo...
Tristan leading pitch 2 on Hairpin, Papoose. Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4 of Hairpin on the Papoose with the Chief i...
Pitch 4 of Hairpin on the Papoose with the Chief i...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Gravel Diving Albatross on the crux pitch of H...
The Gravel Diving Albatross on the crux pitch of H...

Comments on Hairpin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Um, the upper pitches are much harder than 10a when you accidentally do the 10d variation! The Mclane Guide doesn't document the 10d variation very well, so I suspect many climbers unintentionally do it like we did.

That being said, the 10d finishing pitches are awesome and well protected. One bolt is missing a hanger, but the climbing isn't hard there and it is easy to sling a nut on it.

P1 - Fun 5.8 traverse. Don't F the second!
P2 - Awesome series of cracks separated by good ledges trending up. Seemed soft for 10a, but super fun.
P3 - Short but sweet 5.9 crack climbing that moves up and then left to the belay.
P4 - The 10d variation goes straight up. It's pretty technical for the grade. One bolt missing a hanger - thread a nut.
P5 - 5.9 slab climbing straight up. Fun.

Gear - One set of nuts, one set of small cams (nothing extra small needed), double C4s from 0.5 to #3 camalot. Slings.

All anchors are bolted. You could combine the two slab pitches, but it'd be all of a 60m rope.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Tons of fun, get on it. Every pitch is different than the last, all great. I agree with Andy, the 10a move felt soft. I grunted more on the bulge on the third pitch (and the final slab, but my slab technique is terrible.)

Leave your small pieces at home, didn't place anything smaller than a yellow Mastercam. Placed a #4 Camalot on the first two pitches though, but you could do without. Accepts big nuts beautifully.

Ignore the McLane guidebook's descent advice, go North not South!
By AJV
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fairly easy for the grade and extremely safe. This would make a great first 5.10 multi-pitch. The 5.9 roof looked unlikely for the grade, but it was all there. Awesome pitch. Definitely hike off to the north. We were back down in 7 or 8 minutes. If you rapped you'd just be starting your second rap in that time (plus you're potentially interfering with Centrefold).
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

quite good- the bolted variation was fun until the top where it got hard. pretty easy to skip it by standing in a short sling if you're a weaksauce slab climber like me. one partner called it .10c, the other called it .11a. you decide. all the bolts are good.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 12, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

FA: Tim Auger, Dan Tate, 1965. FFA: Don Serl, Vern Coulomb, Greg Yavorski, 1978
One of my favorite 10a routes in Squamish, and yes the 10d/11a slab is hard, agreed North walk off is good, did it bare foot.
By Ryan Lynne
Apr 1, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a super fun multi-pitch and it is very well protected with the exception of the easy 5.6 pitch. The 5.11a slab variation is hard but it is only a few moves and it is very well protected with bolts. Don't be afraid to give it a shot as you can easily aid past the crux. The final 5.10a is also very well protected. This is a great first 5.10a multi pitch.

It is possible to link pitches #2-3 and #4-5 if you do the 5.11a slab variation.

The walk off to the North is straightforward and probably faster than rappelling.
By Serge Smirnov
Aug 28, 2016

P4 direct - only one move harder than 10a, I thought (but it was heavily chalked when I climbed it, so maybe easier than usual).

P5 - why is the 4th bolt located 8' left of the path of least resistance ? (good route nevertheless, thank you for putting it up)