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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,211
Submitted By: Petsfed on Jun 6, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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First pitch of Hairlip.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Just to the left of Easy Jam, climb and obvious right leaning crack with a little of everything. Start with awkward off-width/tips crack moves (weird huh?) into hand and fist to the top. Be kind, leave a sling of your own (and cut off some old ones) before rapping from the anchors.


Standard Vedauwoo rack. Up to #4 Camalot, and slings for the cold shuts at the top.

Photos of Hairlip Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hairlip's 2nd pitch traverse.
Hairlip's 2nd pitch traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Hairlip.
Start of Hairlip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Here I am sucking air in the Hairlip. Photo: Mark ...
Here I am sucking air in the Hairlip. Photo: Mark ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark approaching the anchors. Photo: Dave Fiourcci...
Mark approaching the anchors. Photo: Dave Fiourcci...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark leading the way up the Hairlip. Photo: Dave F...
Mark leading the way up the Hairlip. Photo: Dave F...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hair Lip.
Hair Lip.

Comments on Hairlip Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 22, 2004

From the ground, it looks as if this route may finish with a second pitch. So, I clipped the sling anchors, and continued leading up the crack above it to the roof. I pulled out of the roof to find... a dark, shallow water streak that looked like a crack from the ground. I ended up having to downclimb 15 feet or so of good 5.9 handcrack. Honestly, its a shame the anchors aren't 15 feet higher, that crack section is better than the rest of the climb.
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 14, 2005

Worthwhile. Instead of rapping from the slings at the top of the crack, better to do the horizontal traverse right to a great gear belay.
By slim
Jun 26, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Not sure what the intermediate, fairy, rap station is about. Everybody knows that you didn't do the route unless you do the crawl-off.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 20, 2007

Definitely worth doing. The part where the thinner sliver of rock creates two cracks for jammming is neat.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 6, 2010

Don't clip the slings and lower. Not sure why they are there and can the slings be removed? Do the next pitch but watch for rope drag.
By ross.mon
From: Montana
Jul 3, 2010

Good, awkward fun!
By 303scott
Jun 14, 2011

I wasn't sure how to finish this climb. I passed the suspect middle anchor, climbed the sweet handcrack, and then groveled/crawled right for a few feet. Then I sat (actually layed) there for about 10 minutes trying to figure out where to go. There's a shallow dihedral that looks like it has no protection straight up, or some intimidating no-feet, hand jamming that continues right. As I was out of hand-sized gear, I ultimately committed to the dihedral (which actually protects quite nicely with RPs). Does anyone know which way is the proper finish?
By slim
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Continue with the good hand jamming with bad feet to the right, until you do an awkward pull up over a flake sort of thing, and belay in a hole of sorts (if I remember correctly).
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jul 7, 2013

Crawl right all the way!
By John Lombardi
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 2, 2016

There is a bolted anchor at the end of the first pitch on this climb. Not sure about the 2nd pitch.

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