REI Community
Little Baldy
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Heads T 
Bit By Bit T 
Crazy Bald Heads T 
Hair Raising T 
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 
Hairbrain T 
Merkin, The T 
Middle Size White Boys T 
Prodenominator S 
Regular Route T 
Skinhead S 
Sparkler S 
Tapestry T 
Welcome to Little Baldy T 

Hairbrain 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Hickey, Joe 06/1984
Season: summer,fall
Page Views: 87
Submitted By: Chad Namolik on Jan 22, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Protection 

Single rack to 3", nuts, emphasis on small/med. 60m rope. Build all anchors. Walk off.

Description 

A fun, and varied, adventure route, this is a good multi to do if the regular route was/is a bit too easy for you. The 1P 5.8 crack is well protected. The traverse 5.7 and slab 5.2 to 5.5, are slightly "hairy".

This route is just right of 'the merkin 5.10a', bit left of a giant pine, also under the big roof that's in the middle of LB. Goes up to roof and left to big slab. The first pitch is a nice finger/hand crack over a bulge, and up through a small right facing corner. This crack eats pro. Build anchor under big roof. Traverse left, placing pro every chance. Some may want to break this traverse up into two short pitches or stretch out the rope, place pro on the traverse (long runners) and hit the slab, build belay. When arriving up on the big slab, look for cracks & ledges to build anchors. Two pitches of slightly run out 5.2 - 5.6 slab, options here, or trend left to join the big right facing corner.


Topo, pics, beta sekiclimbing.com

Location 

Look for the big roof, visor feature in the middle of LB. Route climbs up under roof and exits left. When walking up climbers approach trail from large pullout, look for the bolted 5.10 slab routes 'LB hoodwink' & 'the merkin'

Just right of 'the merkin' and starts close to a giant pine tree.


Comments on Hairbrain Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About