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Hair Today Gone Tomorrow 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Season: Fall, Winter
Page Views: 1,409
Submitted By: Chuck on Aug 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: Looks like a hold broke on this one. Hair Today G...


This route starts in the 5.10 range with deep pocket. At the second bolt the You move to thin edges. The roof starts at the third bolt. Use the right corner to lay back and hit the fourth bolt. The back under the roof for a daring mantle to a comfortable ledge and a two bolt anchor.


Park at the last parking lot. This is route "S" in the guilde book. About 100 Yard from the west end of the Gap on the south facing wall. The roof sweeps out about 25 feet up. Just left of the long 10' roof of a project route.


Four quick draw plus anchor
Four bolts to chain anchor

Photos of Hair Today Gone Tomorrow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through lower section
Moving through lower section
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling through the roof
Pulling through the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun roof right before the awesome mantle.
Fun roof right before the awesome mantle.

Comments on Hair Today Gone Tomorrow Add Comment
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By Asa King
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Oct 18, 2010

This is an awesome climb, the mantle near the top is a lot of fun.
By Marius vanderMerwe
From: Saint George, UT
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The first bolt placement needed to be at least a foot higher to be of value, but other than that a great and fun climb (if a bit soft for the grade).
By Nathan Marsh
From: st. george utah
Nov 2, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

agree with Marius, that first bolt is pointless. in fact it is almost more of a fall risk to clip it than to skip it. Other than that fun route and well bolted. just out of curiosity, any beta on the roof? it took me two tries to get it, but it still didn't feel pretty. Also i scrapped a lot of skin off my arms.. not sure if it is just me, but i would recommend a long sleeve shirt.
By Drew Allred
Mar 5, 2013

I was thinking the grade was a little soft too, but maybe just because the route is so short. I think the crux moves around the roof section are possibly 11.d, but it's not even close to sustained 11 climbing. Really fun route nonetheless. I got a good knee lock to move my hands to the roof. To pull the roof, I hooked my right heel.
By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Jan 11, 2014

My son Marty really liked this climb. You can make the mantle a bit easier if you veer to the right. Good falls if you want to push your efforts at sport climbing.
By dlasley
May 25, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

After the last clip before the chains, you can get a heel toehook in the pod before you shoot for the top which makes this move way easier

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