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Hair Shirt 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,728
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>


Nice Offwidth. Note the grade of 5.8+ os for the OW, and the climb could feel harder if you've never done this sort of climbing before. IT's a nice one that has reasonable rests and won't shred the aspiring OW climber, but at least short-sleaves may be advised anyway, as opposed to bare-back or in a tank top.

On the right hands side of Showshed wall, as seen in this picture, there is a tall sunny buttress split in two by a nice OW crack. The climb starts up past a few mountain Mapples to reach a slot that gets cleaner and more solid with progress. Fist-jamming gives way to arm bars, knee locks, and heel-toe technique, until the steep moves up top that are beat with pockets deep inside the crack and a good left-hand sidepull out on the left face.

The top-anchor or TR can be set with any of the various elements of a standard rack.


LARGE gear- take as many #3-4.5 camalots of some big bros as you want for pro on the top 1/2.

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By 426
Mar 19, 2007

Really a classy OW for the Tahoe area...
By Willoughby
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I don't bother with any heel-toe on this one; for me the whole upper half is perfect, hands-free, right-side-in knee locks (wear pants!!). About 2/3 of the way up, there is a spot for a #6 friend if you really want to place one. Otherwise, you can push along a #5 through most of the upper part; no Big Bros necessary.
By Joe Dawson
May 12, 2009

Two #4 Camalots with a #5 Camalot between them will get you through the wide section with no more than 10 feet between the pieces.

This is a fun climb. I do not find that offwidth technique is all that necessary as there are many crimps for a your hands and feet to use along with the crack.
By Ehrick
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun, easy offwidth climb. Good for practicing OW technique in a fairly forgiving environment.
By Ed Henicle
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Jun 20, 2016

Knee locks! take 2 #4 and a #5

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