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Early Bird
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Bed Head T 
Boing-oing-oing T 
Early Bird T 
Hair of the Dog T 
Worm, The T 

Hair of the Dog 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Perkins and Clay Watson, 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer evenings, fall
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jul 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Hair of the Dog is the crack leading to Greg's pos...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climbs the gently overhanging crack directly below and linking into the final crux of Early Bird. Scramble up the chossy rock and make a belay on a nice little shelf directly below the crack. Fire the V4 start, then some .11-ish climbing to the final V5-ish crux.

Location 

Just left of Bedhead and under the final crux of Early Bird.

Protection 

A nut and a #3 camalot for the belay at the bottom. Singles from grey tcu-#2 camalot with one or two long runners for the middle pieces. You can place a bomber medium offset nut below the crux but that's probably the only nut you'd need to supplement the cams.


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By tenesmus
Jul 2, 2011

This climbs more like two or three boulder problems than a route. Its short but the moves are fun so we kept going back. Probably about as hard as Speed Trap but far less sharp and painful. The finish boulder problem goes static if you can trust your feet.

Edit to say this dries out quickly and gets enough sun to make for a nice winter line. It short enough to keep your fingers from totally freezing and the temps help a ton.
By vacano
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This fairly direct line is substantially shorter than Early Bird yet a bit harder.
By tenesmus
Jan 26, 2014

I've gotten feedback that this is probably straight .12c. Its got an extra V4 crux before joining Early Bird but is way shorter.
By Todd H
From: Sandy, UT
May 3, 2017
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Had a lot of fun on top rope, which we set up by climbing over from the Bed Head anchor. A Yellow TCU and #2 Camalot in the upper crack system worked well as directionals. It might be a good idea to dial in your gear this way before leading it, as there seems to be a blind placement or two in the first half of the business. Great movement, especially the first crux!

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