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Hair Lip 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Perlman, 1987
Page Views: 522
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 11, 2004

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Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>


This face climb is located on the left side of the dowlhilll facing face of the rightmost feature of the snowshed wall, just left of the large offwidth crack known as Hair Shirt (5.8), and just right of the spaciously bolted On the Edge (5.11c, three bolts, all way up top.) climbing actually ends above Hair Shirt if you use the normal exit to the climb.

Climb up a small roof to the slab lightly cracked face that's often strenuous, and has some commiting moves at times. Finish off on Hair Shirt for the final bulge. Another finish variation is to traverse left instead of going into Hair shirt for the last bolt of On the Edge, and this makes the grade probably 5.11b or so.


small gear to 1" for most of the route, and a few placements of 1"-2". Bolts up top. It should be noted that most people top rope this climb.

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By 426
Apr 17, 2007

A bit squeezed and contrived. Maybe better as a TR...
By Crimper E6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Aug 31, 2015

why even add this route and not on the edge?? should be erased as an eliminate..
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 16, 2017

It's a fine piece of stone, I don't see the bomb drama. Just because it isn't maximum stars in a rich area doesn't make it a bad climb. I did what I guess is the 5.11- variation. The rock is fine, it just isn't railed 10x a day like some other lines, and maybe a bolt update would serve it well from the quarter inchers. The moves are fun and testy if you can somehow weather the ego slaps dealt here.

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