REI Community
Selfish Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Unknown) T 
A Little More Masochism T 
Apathy T,S 
Breakfast Social T 
Bromance T 
Dilated Cervix T 
Duo, The T 
Ego T 
Gnar T 
Hair and Roses T 
Hand Solo T 
Heretic T 
I&I  T 
Id T 
Infidel T 
Lean and Green T 
Mean Black Dog T 
Mine T 
MMM (Misanthropic Mustache Man) T 
Ooze, The T 
Pack Rat T 
Selfishness T 
Solo East T 
Solo West T 
Suffering, The T 
Tag Team T 
Takers, The T 
Trundle Dog T 
Turd Blossom T 
Turdus Interuptus T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10+ T 
Unnamed T 
Unsorted Routes:

Hair and Roses 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Michael Covington, Charlotte Fox, Angela Donini - Fall 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 607
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on May 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: DR on Hair and Roses (5.10-), Selfish Wall, Indian...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A variable crack in the back of an open book. Wide to start, then goes to tips, then an incut hand crack.
From the top of the crack, head right up the ramp to find the anchor bolts. NOTE: this upper ramp has been sloughing off a fair amount of loose rock, so try to clear the shooting gallery of pedestrians before approaching or using the anchor.
Reportedly, the FA only used one cam, the rest was done on nuts and hexes.

Location 

On the south side of the crag, about 40 feet around the corner left of Turdus Interruptus.
A new plaque marks the route's base (the original one disappeared).

Protection 

Almost-sub-tips (0 or 00 C3?) to gold camalots. Anchor bolts off to the right (which are not visible from the base).


Comments on Hair and Roses Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
Mar 18, 2012

This climb reminded me of why we usually seek out the varnish: because sandy rock, iffy gear and iffy jams aren't that much fun.
By slim
Administrator
Mar 28, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

the climbing is decent, but the anchor location is in a location that is rough on the rock and the rope. if the anchor were moved a ways to the left (or perhaps, about 20 feet lower where the good climbing ends), it might be helpful.

gear selection seems way, way off (maybe the OP was thinking of the route 'mine' which is about 100 feet to the right. recommended gear -optional big piece for start, then finger to hand size pieces.
By Laura Sowalskie
From: NY
Apr 28, 2016

The crack itself was fun and varied, if a bit dirty. Still quite sandy coming out of the crack. Since the anchor is above and right of the climb, lowering off and top-roping can really wear your rope. I watched a cloud of sand go up into the air as I lowered from the friction of my rope going over the edge... My partner and I decided the best way to go about this for minimal rope wear would have been for me to top-belay her up, and for both of us to rap down.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About