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Hailstone Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark K. Howe, Eric Berghorn (bolts 2009)
Page Views: 5,622
Submitted By: Eric Berghorn on Feb 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Eric on Hailstone Arete Photo: Jerry Dodrill

Description 

This is one of the longer face climbs in the park with a distinct crux just before the anchor. Mark Howe was inspirational in sharing his knowledge of Hailstone and was the first to explore variations of this route in the mid -1990's.

Location 

As one approaches the crag from the trail below Hailstone Rock this is the first fully bolted route on the right side (lowest point) of the western face. This route shares the start of the Doc's Holiday gully route, but stays a few feet left of the arête after the start. Belay from a small flat area of the trail slightly right of the line of bolts above. The first bolt is about 25 feet up the low angled face.

Protection 

Pass 7 bolts to clip the chain anchor at the top of the formation.


Photos of Hailstone Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: leading Hailstone Arete
leading Hailstone Arete
Rock Climbing Photo: clipping the anchor at sunset
clipping the anchor at sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Ken enters the crux...
Ken enters the crux...
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up a top belay on a stormy day
Setting up a top belay on a stormy day

Comments on Hailstone Arete Add Comment
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By Ari G
Oct 23, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CLASSIC! Fun and sustained 5.8 or 5.9 most of the way up. Well-bolted and high, this one feels both exposed and super safe (once you have scrambled up to the first bolt).

Weird anchor at the top could use some love... chains are super rusty, and one bolt is angled weirdly. Bring a cordelette or lots of trust.
By Jared Murray
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 15, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very fun route - well worth the loose switchback hiking and bushwhacking that it takes to get up there!
By Burlen
Aug 22, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

very fun. I started a bit too high up, traversing right. I was above the first bolt before I saw it. you want to start below and to the right of the bolt you can see. You can't see the 1st bolt from the tree where you put your stuff down.
By Jared Snyder
Jun 13, 2017

Beautiful view of the napa valley from this climb!

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