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Hail Mary 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kevin Wilkinson - 2005/2006
Page Views: 382
Submitted By: Train4life on Nov 26, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Kevin Wilkinson FA of Hail Mary

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hail Mary is a fine route with a 6 foot roof that looks easier than it is. The route starts off with easy entry moves for a bolt to a jug below the roof. Make a clip off this jug and then breathe, hesitate, breathe again and try to power through the "hail mary" roof. It's probably in the V6-8 range. Grab the best pockets you can find and make a big move over the roof to a giant 3-finger pocket. It sounds like most people dyno for the pocket above the roof but I found a way to static the move off a two finger pocket below the roof with a tricky upside down toe hook. From the pocket, make the third clip and fight and claw your way up another bolt of 5.12 climbing. Hit the right jug around the bulge and it's all over folks. The next two bolts of climbing to the anchor is an easy 5.10. Enjoy the route!

Location 

Easy to find. Stand in the solstice cave and look to the climber's right. You will see a 6 foot roof! Get on it!

Protection 

Sport: 4 QD's with 2 permadraws in the roof!


Photos of Hail Mary Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: I believe this is the crux move on the FA by Kevin...
I believe this is the crux move on the FA by Kevin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Wilkinson FA of Hail Mary
Kevin Wilkinson FA of Hail Mary
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Wilkinson FA of Hail Mary
Kevin Wilkinson FA of Hail Mary
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin chalks up during his FA after the crux moves...
Kevin chalks up during his FA after the crux moves...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse wanted the first ascent sooo bad.  I think h...
Jesse wanted the first ascent sooo bad. I think h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Wilkinson showing stellar technique on his F...
Kevin Wilkinson showing stellar technique on his F...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Wilkinson past the crux during his FA.
Kevin Wilkinson past the crux during his FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris hitting almost out of the crux of the route.
Chris hitting almost out of the crux of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the crux but still fighting.
Past the crux but still fighting.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing under the roof.
Climbing under the roof.

Comments on Hail Mary Add Comment
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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 23, 2015

Kevin Wilkinson put up the first ascent of this in 2005/6. Originally he rated it 12d, but was projecting 14's at the time.

Watched one guy do six or seven one arm pullups trying to hit the crux. I've got shots of that FA around here somewhere.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2015

Yes, sorry to downgrade it but the people I asked down at LCC all said around 12b! I was shocked, I thought it was pretty hard but I'm pretty terrible at bouldering. If you could put up those photo's that would be incredible! Will you tell me what he rated it, that way I can just keep it at his grade!
By Jerry432
From: odessa texas
May 26, 2015

A fun route for sure but I have to disagree on the 13 rating. If you know the beta and climb moderates its 12b at most. No dyno necessary granted you have worked out the beta. I really enjoy this climb as the crux kicks me in the teeth evrytime I get on it.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 14, 2017

I disagree with the 12b grade. But we are splitting hairs. It's a very peculiar one move wonder. If you are a strong boulderer it will feel soft. I felt it was hard and then went and flashed Eclipse 12d to the left right after this. So I don't know grades but it felt hard for me!
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 21, 2017

Posted most of the shots I have from the FA. What a mixed weekend. Kevin put up two FA's and a guy fell off Fossil wall and broke his ankle, girl belaying him had those long acrylic finger nails. All while being stalked by the mountain lion.

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